Lots of white smoke and rough idle w/ MMO
the CP3 uses some of the fuel to lubricate and cool some parts and engine oil for others if I'm not mistaken. this fuel that is used to lubricate and cool is returned back to the tank and I would imagine it would be very hot, this is usefull in the winter months to keep the fuel in the tank from gelling. however in the summer months I can see when the tank gets low the temps of the fuel are going up which means the system is getting hotter and hotter.
Strange that you mention a fuel cooler. On all the big engines, they use fuel to cool the ecms, sort of killing two birds with one stone. Keeping the ecm cool and a fuel heater.
i've already done the fuel cooler mod on 2 bmw's & my 2000 ram and know it works over on the gasser side, I'm sure it has to work on the diesel side as well. i found out that duramax's have a fuel cooler on the return line to the tank. motorheads have added a fan to it and it ends up giving them 2~4 mpg improvement. they JUST started using the fan and it didnt seem like they have a handle on whether or not a pre-heater is needed or not. A co-worker has a Duramax and I had a peek under his truck, sure enough there is a fanless cooler that has absolutely no airflow past it. pretty inefficent the way it's setup.
The way I did the cooler on the gassers was to run the fuel lines up to the front (little bit of a potential hazzard huh? lol) and then insulate it back to the fuel rails & injectors. worked awesome.
my goal will be to try to get the fuel temps at 75 deg or less during the summer (might be kinda hard with the ambients over 100) and let the heater do it's thing for anything less than 75.
Drew, if you ever have time to look @ the CP3, can you determine the return line setup? I breifly looked at it one day and lines were going everywhere, decided it would be best tackled in warmer weather or in the garage...
The way I did the cooler on the gassers was to run the fuel lines up to the front (little bit of a potential hazzard huh? lol) and then insulate it back to the fuel rails & injectors. worked awesome.
my goal will be to try to get the fuel temps at 75 deg or less during the summer (might be kinda hard with the ambients over 100) and let the heater do it's thing for anything less than 75.
Drew, if you ever have time to look @ the CP3, can you determine the return line setup? I breifly looked at it one day and lines were going everywhere, decided it would be best tackled in warmer weather or in the garage...
I'll see if I can get some time to look at it. . .gets dark quick around here this time of year and I dont leave work till 5:30.
heres a cut-a-way of the CP3 for ya though.
[IMG]local://upfiles/7365/F75281F6B69F40BF9D75D25DF0449B16.jpg[/IMG]
heres a cut-a-way of the CP3 for ya though.
[IMG]local://upfiles/7365/F75281F6B69F40BF9D75D25DF0449B16.jpg[/IMG]
ORIGINAL: mjh1019
Just wondering if anyone else has this problem. I have a rough idle w/ plenty of white smoke when i start up in the morning. If find if does it a lot more when i use Drew's brew. If i use PSD alone, it is not as bad. Any help would be great.
Just wondering if anyone else has this problem. I have a rough idle w/ plenty of white smoke when i start up in the morning. If find if does it a lot more when i use Drew's brew. If i use PSD alone, it is not as bad. Any help would be great.
i had the same prob!!!
i did not use any additive in the diesel and it still would smoke in the mornin...i posted a thread and some said it was norm..some said put some fix juice in the tank... i did the juice(additive ) thing and nothing.... so i took it to the dealer and reflased the comp....now no smoke... none.... if it just smoke while its warming up...then take it to the dealer...
i did not use any additive in the diesel and it still would smoke in the mornin...i posted a thread and some said it was norm..some said put some fix juice in the tank... i did the juice(additive ) thing and nothing.... so i took it to the dealer and reflased the comp....now no smoke... none.... if it just smoke while its warming up...then take it to the dealer...
So i took it to the stealer ship and they reflashed the the comp. Now, all is good and no smoke!!!! It was the computer... go figure!! Thanks to all for the help. Now for the next step, I got in good with the tech at the dealership, kinda hinting around on the idea of a programer. From what he explained they never realy check for aftermarket products unless you realy do damage like blowing the motor. Now the question I am asking to all, WHICH MOD. TO GO WITH AND WHAT CAN THE TRANS AND DRIVETRIAN HANDLE !!!!!
Since its an auto, I wouldn't go anything over 50-75 horse for now. You could get a tst or an edge and keep it onthe lower settings until that trans is upgraded. I have heard good things about the SMARTY programmer from 2 guys around my area.
Jake has it right. . .but you want something that when you do the upgrades you can use higher power settings. smarty, and TST are both good about this. I know with the TST and an auto anything above 3 and your slipping the tranny, but you still have 6 more power settings left. upgrade the trans and you can push a bit more power through, but then you'll have to upgrade the turbo adn the pusher pump. The smarty programmer is the same way, it can also read and clear codes, and also adjust the tire calibration.







