A bunch of folks have been asking for an oil change write up, so here ya go. LOTS of pics, so it will be a couple of posts.

You'll need:

3 gals of oil (your choice)
1 oil filter (again, your choice)
Drain pan large enough to hold 3 gals. I suggest a 15 qt pan for safety and environmental friendliness.
Funnel (preferably one with a little fluid capacity a large snout)
Rachet wrenchs (3/8" drivefor the drain plug and I used a 1/2" drive for my strap wrench)
Filter removal tool (I used a strap wrench)
LONG extensions to get up to the oil filter (about 14 - 18" worth). Otherwise you have to either remove the air intake or the inner fender liner.
A 3/8" u-joint. Makes getting the drain plug off a much cleaner ordeal.

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Make sure you let the engine cool down at least an hour before working. Just to make sure you don't burn yourself (middle ages style), but this still keeps the oil warm so it drains easier.

1 -Loosen, do not completely remove,the oil fill cap to allow the oil to drain easier.

2 - Place the drain pan under the engine oil pan and remove the drain plug with the 3/8" drive rachet w/ extension and u-joint. Allow it to drain completely. Clean the plug and area around the drain.

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3 - Re-install the drain plug to 36 lb/ft.

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4 - Use the oil filter removal tool of choice and the extensions to remove the oil filter. Be careful, it is full of oil and it you tip it at all, you will spill.

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5 - Clean the area around the oil filter adapter.

More to follow below.....

 

6 - Place the new filter on the ground and support it and fill with oil up to the bottom of the threads. It will take a few times as the oil soaks into the media. Lube the seal with your finger with clean oil.

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7 - Reinstall the filter. Tighten the filter until the filter seal contacts the adapter and then tighten another 1/2 turn. Do not overtighen, you'll stretch or strip the threads and then you have a whole different animal to deal with.

8- Remove the oil filler cap and refill with the remaining oil from the 3 gals that you purchased.

9 - Wait a few minutes, check the oil level and then start the truck and check for leaks and makes sure no idiot lights come on.

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10 - Let the truck cool and sit for a while and check the level again, adjust if needed. Record the mileage and, if so desired write it on the oil filter or other place.

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11 - Take all the used motor oil to the recycling place and dispose of properly. (You are gonna do that.......right.)

 

I often wondered if you should fill the oil filter up with oil before installing it but over the years I have NEVER seen or heard of anyone doing it. It will be a new step for me from this point forward, thanks for the write up!

 

Don't know about the older owners manuals but in mine it said to fill the filter with oil before you install it and to take care to not get any dust, dirt in it or let any other objects drop in to the filter before you install it.

IIRC what I was told years ago is that it's hard on the Turbo bearings if you don't fill the oil filter before you install it.

 

I filled mine on my first time changing the oil a few weeks ago, I figured the time it took to fill the oil filter and start flowing, would leave me running dry longer than not filling it .

After filling and putting it back on, I had oil pressure right away as soon as I started the engine.

I still have plans to add the by-pass and pre-luber to my engine, as I read with the pressures we have going on inside, a dry start is harder on the enginethan with a gas engine

 

I filled my first. It took almost the entire quart (just a few dribbles left). I imagine it would take awhile to get oil circulating through the engine if the pump had to first fill the filter...

Better safe than sorry and since the filter goes in vertically there is no mess.

 

Pretty much my thoughts as well but since I have never seen it done or heard of anyone doing it, I just left it at that...hehe I really should have asked. On that note, my oil pressure shot right up as soon as my engine started as well. I would imagine that even though it does take some time for a filter to soak up the oil thats being poured into it, the oil under pressure will soak the element far quicker then what a typical pour would do. I do agree however, that filling it up first would be a much better idea and I do plan to do that from now on. I guess the fact that my previous engines all had the filter at some odd angle and so made less sense to do.

 

GREAT write up bro !!

I've never seen a wrench like this before. How does it work?

I too fill my oil filter before putting it on, but I have one question. I get my filters from Geno's, and on them they say to tighten until tight by hand, and then tighten 3/4 turn with a wrench. It seems like it's too tight. Do any of you guy's do this?

 

It's just a strap wrench. It goes around the filter and cinches down on it as you turn. Works just like any other wrench, just works on odd size or shaped items.

By the Service Manual, it says touch the seal and then 1/2 turn more.

 

I use a wrench that looks like a vice grip on steroids. Works great. That strap thing looks kinda cool though. What is the strap, velcro or something?

Yeah, I think I've been puttingthe filteron too tight. I've been turning it on by hand until I can't turn it anymore, and then going at it with the wrench for the extra 3/4 turn. I can't even make it all the way around to 3/4 though. I thnk from now on I'm gonna stop at hand tight like I do on my scoot. I guess the diesel still has me a bit intimidated huh?