Well i now know it isn't the crankshaft position sensor.... The ignition switch... but i have spark/power from the coil to distributor cap, but not from the cap to the plugs.
The dist.cap is new , the wires and plugs are new....The camshaft position sensor is new.....

So could it be the distributor itself?????Or do i keep looking? How do I test it or is there even a test to do ?

 

If the coil is creating spark on the center wire going to the distributor then it's probably safe to assume that both the crank and cam sensors are good.

Is the rotor turning when the engine is cranked? (probably, but double-check it anyway)
Is the cap on backwards? (don't laugh, I've seen this)
Is the rotor lined up correctly with the notch in the distributor shaft and pressed down all the way?
Are the wires pressed down into the cap until a snap/click is heard?
Do you have the correct length rotor for the cap? (seen this wrongtoo)

If you're getting spark into the cap but not out, then your problem is likely with the cap, rotor, or distributor shaft or housing alignment.

 

If nothing else i have learned from this experience. Going shopping for a reman. distributor today.I be back after i replace it.
Don't worry i will not turn the engine with the distributor out.

 

I know it is bad to double post but I DID NOT buy the distributor. While I was shopping around for one a gentilmen told me that " if the dist. IS turning it isn't BAD. I should only replace it when it DOES NOT turn .
He said recheck my dist cap. even if new it could still be bad.
Is this right? as far as the distibutor turning and not turning.

I'm so confused....... I took home ec. in highschool b/c of the pretty girls and not autoshop( greasy boys).
I mean who would you have rather been around????? he he he.

 

He's mostly right, your distributor can still turn yet have side to side play that will cause ignition problems. But that usually causes the engine to run rough at higher RPMs, it does not prevent starting.

The girls might have been pretty and the boys greasy, but who are you come to for help now? [sm=bustedsign.gif][sm=smarty.gif]

 

Well this is where i am at now .I have spark from the ignition coil to the dist cap but the spark does not continue to the plugs, any of them, I tried all 8 wires.

try new dist.cap maybe?????

 

A new cap is probably the easiest thing to try at this point. But make sure you get the expensive one with the brass (or gold) contacts. The cheap ones with the aluminum contacts oxidize and tend to cause P0300-P0308 codes.

 

Bought a better end cap and rotor still no spark to plugs .... going to check for proper volts maybe not enough??

 

That's just too weird, for you to be getting spark into the cap but not out, even with different caps. How exactly are you testing for spark? Are you testing at the cap itself or are you pulling the wire off of the plug and testing from that end?

 

I am new with a dvm so i had my father run me through the basics and an online help pages too/ O.k. here goes Alloro, thanks for your time by the way I do welcome the questioning.I have a digital volt/ohm meter, a standard test light and a spark tester.
As far as testing goes with the dvm set to V w/ the line... on 20. As you turn the key ON you get an intital jump then back 0.(this is with the + line in the coil wire and the - grounded to the engine block)then with my wife turning the key over and the dvm still in the same wire it jumps/spikes upto 10 or 11volts until she returns it to the On position.I have also used another plug wire with the spark tester grounded to the block and i see a visible spark from the coil.
Now when I repeat this method except with any plug wire from the dist.cap and my wife tries to start it no visible spark or reading on the dvm.
I believe this is correct, if not I am up for a lesson.
Thanks again for your time.