I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, thermostat, all hoses including main, bypass and heater core hoses on my father in-law's work van last spring. So I was sort of suprised to get a call about it leaking and asked him to bring it by.

Sure enough it was pissing out antifreeze and I couldn't locate any obvious leak so I asked him to leave it -- it is difficult to see anything in the water pump area on this van because of all the accessories and the large bracket that supports them.

I took everything out of the way this afternoon to get a better look but still couldn't really spot it. So I figured I'd have to run it until warm to see if I could catch the leak in the act. Only problem was how to run it without anything attached so I came up with a makeshift belt I put together out of some Black Gorilla Duct Tape -- it wouldn't break but kept wanting to fly off so after several attempts I figured out if I went back in with small sections of tape at right angles to the direction of the belt and wrapped the water pump pulley with these tabs I could get it to work.

So now I have just the crank and the water pump going with everthing out of the way and I get it up to operating temp and it took me a while but I finally isolated the leak. It seems to be coming from the area behind the water pump but not at the gasket about an inch behind that where what I guess is the timing chain cover, where that mates to the block.

Thing is that I imagine the timing chain area to be on the oil side of things in the motor. So I'm confused about how antifreeze could be seeping from behind there. Is there a pass through pipe or something in that area with an O-ring or something like that? Is this worth fixing if so and how envolved would it be. Just take the crank pulley and get a timing cover gasket or is it a lot more than that?

I'd really love to see this van just go, but he's semi-retired and buying a new work van doesn't make sense for him so I kinda have to make a best efforts attempt at getting this done.

Thanks in advance for your help / input !!

 

There are two water passages from the water pump that run straight back through the timing cover and onto the block. There is a gasket between the water pump and the timing cover, but there is also a gasket between the timing cover and the block.

Here's a picture of the timing cover showing the two passages:


If you ask for a timing cover gasket set it should come with everything here in this picture. The silver looking gasket at the bottom left is the one that is leaking. FYI, the gasket is shown upside down.

 

Thanks a million -- at least I know what's going on and that I'm not crazy now. Anyone want to weigh in how difficult a job this will be?

 

On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd give it a 4. It's more time than effort. Might as well change the timing gears and chain while you have the timing cover off.

 

Thanks -- I just spent some time out there this morning and it doesn't look too bad. Biggest challenge will be pulling the crank I guess.

 

By "pulling the crank" I hope you're talking about the damper pulley and not the crankshaft itself.

 

Yes, the pulley -- I could just see myself standing there with a giant crankshaft in my hands going whats this for LOL. Seriously though I'm off to borrow a puller from a buddy right now.

Do I have to drop the oil pan though or will the timing chain cover slide up and off without dropping the pan. I just want to be sure I pick up all the gaskets I will need while I'm out.

 

Ok I figured out that I definitely have to drop the pan -- and no one has the oil pan gasket locally but they can all get it for tomorrow -- so I was going to order a fel-pro kit online that has all the gaskets for way less money and just overnight it. that being said I don't know whether I have the Sleeve N' Seal style or without and everything I find says for the overhead valve motor but this looks like a pushrod design unless I'm mistaken

 

You do not need to drop the pan. The timing gasket set comes with the pieces you need for where the front of the pan gets exposed.

 

Maybe it's because of the Fel Pro set I got but it says must be used with OS3405R3 or something to that affect and that was the oil pan gasket. I got sidetracked from this project for a day or two but I've been out there the past couple days and I'm at the point where I'd like to shoot myself in the head.

I figured out I couldn't get the pan out without sliding it backwards so I dropped the tranny out of the way -- not a major PITA but definitely no fun...then the motor because the rear is supported by the tranny was tilted way back so I figured out a way to support it with a toe strap wrapped around the roof and I put two bolts back in where the tranny bolts up and then ratcheted that sucker level again. Still don't have enough clearance to get the pan out so I loosened the front driver side mount but can't get in to lossed the passenger side.

I still need quite a bit of clearance to get the pan out and at this point I'm well beyone committed to getting it changed. She leaks from just about everywhere so I could probably solve half the oil leak problem by getting this done.

I'm totally at a loss as to what to try next. I have an engine hoist but of course the motor to my Jeep is resting on it at the moment. I might have to get her off of there and use that to raise the front of the motor 4 to 6 inches to get the clearance I need.

Am I missing something altogether or is it really this tough to change the oil pan gasket on these vans?