1995 2500 van power windows and blower wont work
Yes, maybe a 20 amp fuse is not strong enough. Try turning the blower off and see if the fuse holds. If it does, turn the fan on low and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then most likely the blower is internally shorted. But if it did not blow, then the 20 amp fuse is probably just not strong enough.
What was the color of the fusible link that you eliminated?
As far as the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box goes, the power first runs from the fusible link to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch it goes to the fuse box. You can confirm this by testing for power at the 30 amp fuse and you'll see that it only has power when the key is on (assuming the new 20 amp fuse didn't blow).
What was the color of the fusible link that you eliminated?
As far as the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box goes, the power first runs from the fusible link to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch it goes to the fuse box. You can confirm this by testing for power at the 30 amp fuse and you'll see that it only has power when the key is on (assuming the new 20 amp fuse didn't blow).
If it was a gray fusible link it was rated at 50 amps, orange 40 amps.
Below are the standard ratings for Chrysler's fusible links. In each line is first the circuit name, then the circuit number, then the size of the fusible link followed by it's color, then the amp rating of the fusible link, after that is the gauge of the wiring for the rest of the circuit followed by the color of the wire used in the circuit.
Alternator Feed (R6) 12 gauge (black) 160 amp (2x80 in parallel) 8 gauge (BK)
Radiator Fan (C26) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 14 gauge (GY)
Ignition Feed (J10) 18 gauge (gray) 50 amp 12 gauge (PK/BK)
Ignition Feed (J1) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 12 gauge (RD)
ECU/ASD Feed (J1) 22 gauge (white) 30 amp 12 gauge (PK)
Direct Battery Feed (L1) 18 gauge (gray) 50 amp 12 gauge (RD/WT)
Heated Rear Window (C13) 18 gauge (gray) 40 amp 12 gauge (BK/RD)
Hazard Flasher (A3) 20 gauge (orange) 20 amp 14 gauge (PK)
Below are the standard ratings for Chrysler's fusible links. In each line is first the circuit name, then the circuit number, then the size of the fusible link followed by it's color, then the amp rating of the fusible link, after that is the gauge of the wiring for the rest of the circuit followed by the color of the wire used in the circuit.
Alternator Feed (R6) 12 gauge (black) 160 amp (2x80 in parallel) 8 gauge (BK)
Radiator Fan (C26) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 14 gauge (GY)
Ignition Feed (J10) 18 gauge (gray) 50 amp 12 gauge (PK/BK)
Ignition Feed (J1) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 12 gauge (RD)
ECU/ASD Feed (J1) 22 gauge (white) 30 amp 12 gauge (PK)
Direct Battery Feed (L1) 18 gauge (gray) 50 amp 12 gauge (RD/WT)
Heated Rear Window (C13) 18 gauge (gray) 40 amp 12 gauge (BK/RD)
Hazard Flasher (A3) 20 gauge (orange) 20 amp 14 gauge (PK)
Yes, maybe a 20 amp fuse is not strong enough. Try turning the blower off and see if the fuse holds. If it does, turn the fan on low and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then most likely the blower is internally shorted. But if it did not blow, then the 20 amp fuse is probably just not strong enough.
What was the color of the fusible link that you eliminated?
As far as the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box goes, the power first runs from the fusible link to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch it goes to the fuse box. You can confirm this by testing for power at the 30 amp fuse and you'll see that it only has power when the key is on (assuming the new 20 amp fuse didn't blow).
What was the color of the fusible link that you eliminated?
As far as the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box goes, the power first runs from the fusible link to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch it goes to the fuse box. You can confirm this by testing for power at the 30 amp fuse and you'll see that it only has power when the key is on (assuming the new 20 amp fuse didn't blow).


oh and the fusible link was orange and said 20 ga on it
Then the fuse you installed should be a 40 amp, instead of a 20 amp.
If you install a 40 amp fuse and it blows try this...unplug your blower motor (there is a 2-wire connector for it), turn the key on, make sure your windows are working. If they are, turn on the blower switch (the blower will not run of course). Try all the speed selections, floor, vent, A/C, and defrost. If the fuse holds, then I think your blower motor is shot and needs replacing. If it still blows the fuse, then the only other thing that could blow the 40 amp fuse when you turn on the blower switch is if the speed resistor for the blower has a broken coil that is shorting to ground.
But maybe all you need is the 40 amp fuse, so try that and see if you're all set.
If you install a 40 amp fuse and it blows try this...unplug your blower motor (there is a 2-wire connector for it), turn the key on, make sure your windows are working. If they are, turn on the blower switch (the blower will not run of course). Try all the speed selections, floor, vent, A/C, and defrost. If the fuse holds, then I think your blower motor is shot and needs replacing. If it still blows the fuse, then the only other thing that could blow the 40 amp fuse when you turn on the blower switch is if the speed resistor for the blower has a broken coil that is shorting to ground.
But maybe all you need is the 40 amp fuse, so try that and see if you're all set.







