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1995 2500 van power windows and blower wont work

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Old 05-12-2009, 01:04 AM
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Default 1995 2500 van power windows and blower wont work

1995 2500 van conversion...i have no power wndows and no power to the switches...(pulled switches out and checked all pin slots and no power to any of them..............and the blower motor will not work at all....checked all fuses....bought an a/c relay but cant find location of relay in the van or out on the firewall?........can someone help me please....i am about to junk this thing
 

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Old 05-12-2009, 09:37 AM
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You should check at the blower motor plug for power. The two issues might not be related.

If however there is also no power at the blower motor, then one of your ignition circuits, or the accessory circuit might be dead. Do you have the under hood fuse box? If not, then you have fusible links and one of them might be burnt. The fusible links are in the wiring harness up around the brake booster.
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:20 PM
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Smile thank you

Originally Posted by alloro
you should check at the blower motor plug for power. The two issues might not be related.

If however there is also no power at the blower motor, then one of your ignition circuits, or the accessory circuit might be dead. Do you have the under hood fuse box? If not, then you have fusible links and one of them might be burnt. The fusible links are in the wiring harness up around the brake booster.
i have no fuse box under hood....just one under dash and one in the glove box (van conversion stuff under dash)....are the fuseable links wrapped in tape?...what do they look like?...sorry....i can build you a fiber network and wire up your data room...but lost on this............thank you for your help so far
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:07 PM
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A picture is worth a thousand words.

 
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:03 PM
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Red face thank you again...

Originally Posted by alloro
A picture is worth a thousand words.

PLEAE EXCUSE MY STUPIDITY...................BUT IS THIS WRAPPED UP IN THE TAPE HOLDING THE WORES TOGETHER??????....i DONT SEE THIS AND CAN ONLY ASSUME IT IS UNDER THE TAPE...OR WRAPPING OF THE HARNESS....................AGAIN I AM SORRY FOR BEING SO IGNORENT ABOUT ALL THIS....BUT LEARNING AS I GO:confuse d::confuse d:
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:16 PM
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Yes, you have to 'carefully' slit the tape open to find them.

There's no such thing as a dumb question, there's only people to dumb to ask. So ask all you want, that's why we're all here.
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
Yes, you have to 'carefully' slit the tape open to find them.

There's no such thing as a dumb question, there's only people to dumb to ask. So ask all you want, that's why we're all here.
i AM ON MY WAY TO LOOK NOW......AND I PRAY THAT THIS IS IT.........I WILL LET YOU KNOW IN A WHILE
THANK YOU AGAIN SO MUCH
 
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rntvin1
i AM ON MY WAY TO LOOK NOW......AND I PRAY THAT THIS IS IT.........I WILL LET YOU KNOW IN A WHILE
THANK YOU AGAIN SO MUCH


BOUGHT NEW LINKS AT THE PARTS STORE AND SET IT UP.....NOW THESE WERE NOT QUITE THE SAME.....THEY WERE A BIT LARGER IN WIRE GAUGE...AND REQUIRED A BLADE TYPE FUSE...INSTALLED AND USED A 20AMP FUSE...TURNED ON KEY AND IT POPPED IT RIGHT AWAY.................WHILE LOOKING AT THE WIRES.....THE ONE I AM WOKING ON HAS 2 WIRES ON THE LINK ON ONE END.....IS THIS NORMAL?....i REMOVED THE BURNT FUSE AND WAS ABLE TO FIND POWER ON ONE END ..(OF COURSE) AND DETERMINED THAT I NEED TO TRACE THE OTHER END..(WHERE I DONT HAVE POWER..THIS IS THE END WITH 2 WIRES)....AFTER TRACING FOR A WHILE IT APPEARS THAT THE SECOND WIRE DOUBLES BACK TO ANOTHER LINK
 
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:50 AM
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Those type of links are actually better. With those you now have the convenience of being able to replace a fuse instead of having to replace a fusible link, should it blow again.

A fuse blowing that quickly indicates a short in the wiring system somewhere along that circuit, after the fuse. Unfortunately there is no simple solution to tracing out a short like that.

You can try some things to help narrow it down, like unplugging things on that circuit, such as, your oxygen sensor(s), the ASD relay, fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc. If the fuse doesn't blow with these disconnected, reconnect them one at a time until the fuse blows (with the key on). Once the fuse blows, you've at least narrowed your search down. The first one you'll want to plug back in is the ASD relay since most of these circuit components do not get power unless the ASD relay is in and working.

If the fuse still blows with those items unplugged, then you're likely looks for a spot in the wiring harness where the insulation has worn off and is shorting to ground. Oh and one other clue...since the fuse doesn't blow unless the key is turned on, you now know that the circuit is good from your new fuse all the way to the ignition switch plug under the dash. The short is somewhere from the ignition switch plug on out to the rest of the circuit.
 
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:42 AM
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I put a 20amp fuse and the system..(if I am correct that this is the blower/windows) has a 30amp in the panel....would the fuse blow since i had turned on the fan and it was a 20 amp....and the other on that circut are 30 amp?????????...and I want to carrect my findings....the 2 wires i said before that one doubled back the another fusible link but i was wrong...it went to a relay.............now another question...if this is the wire.wires for the windows and blower.......wouldnt in run to the inside fuse panel before going to the windows/blower?
 


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