Okay..I have the following codes 45-34-32...I have the haynes book but it lists the codes more then once...any ideas??? The van does run rough...I can mostly feel it when I come to a stop it has never stalled but kinda feels like it wants too....The more important issue right now is the head lights. When I pull the lights on all that comes on is the parking light. However when I flash the high beam/ low beam switch the light will flash and if I hold the high/low beam sitch they will stay on....I replaced the switch to turn them on and replaced the multifunction switch(high/low beam, blinker switch) still nothing...I checked the fuses in the glove and the fuses up in the engine..all good????????? there is an alarm that flashes the parking light when I set or un set alarm...not sure if the head light are supossed to flash too but there not working so they don't flash...Any info would be helpfull...I need to get a inspection sticker.......

 

See the L2 wire in the picture below. That wire supplies power to the headlights when the switch is turned on. Now look to the right of wire L2 at wire L20. That one supplies power to the headlights when you hit "flash". You have a problem with the L2 wire or one of the connectors at one of the switches is not making contact.

 

I will look into this ...if you are still working this....???
I need to know- eng, remote starter, DRL (daytime running lights), other modifications

maxi fuse #6 60amp
headlights selected is there 12v a vio/wht wire a headlight connector?

32**EGR Solenoid circuitShort or open in the EGR solenoid circuit. Check for loose, broken, or shorted wire in the EGR valve wiring and connectors. Possible air fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.



35Radiator Fan low speed relay circuitOpen or short in the radiator fan relay wiring.

 

Okay thanks guys I am still tring to fix it. It does have alarm and remote start on the same sytem(same key pad to do both) The shock sensor ia audiovox..Ill have to get more info on it...I HAVE NO POWER VIA THE RED/WHIITE WIRE coming in to the head light switch to turn head lights on. If I do get 12. somthing volts from the lt/green wire and drops to 11. something when I hit the flash switch(low/high beam) I also found the red/white wire coming from the fuse box in the engine I tried to follow it (harnnes) I looks like it was spliced or maybe a fusible link? It breaks and has a white wire connecting them...From the fuse box in the engine where does the red/wht go straight to the head light swith??? I know this isn't much help but just wanted to post what I looked at as of today....I am going to look at it later when I get back....... I do have the haynes book so been tring to follow it never really had to look at the wire diagrams before ....(a little tricky) but getting it....With that alar there is so many wire tied up under the colum..I am going to start undoing all the wire ties in a few minute and try to see if I can get a better look at it...This might be a goofy thing to ask but is there just one red and white wire in the whole car...I doubt it ,but that would be good for me at least I would now when Ever I seen that color I would be working on the head lights...

 

That's not possible. If the Red/White wire was indeed dead then the flash would not work. The R/W wire powers both the headlight switch and the flash.

 

Okay I did get ther head light working. I was testing the red/wht wire on the (multi fuction ?)switch....blinkers/wipers/high beams...I traced a wire..well its plain to see it is a wire with a in-line fuse(homemade) from the guy I bought it from I assum Coming out of the Head light switch where you turn head lights on...not sure why he did it but it was a 10 amp fuse and it was blown It might blow again the connection to the switch is not very good but it seems to be working so far....Thanks for the help.......I do still have the rough idle issue ...I did clean out (IAC) per the link you sent me....I have to double check the vacum hoses but all looks good so far.......

 

A trick that might help the idle problem as well any running rough condition is what a Dodge tech called the "Give it the finger" trick.

What you do is remove the dog house and top of the air cleaner. Have the hood open and a tool ready to unhook the negative battery cable. Once you are ready start a already warmed up engine, let it idle for about 15 seconds and then slowly put your thumb over the idle air control motors opening in the throttle body (just slide your thumb over the back side of the inside of the throttle body opening). You want to actually stall the engine but do so slowly as this will cause the IAC to open all the way up. After the engine stalls leave the key on-Do not touch the key! Now unhook the negative battery cable, have a timer and leave it off for no less then two minutes. Once the two minutes are up turn the key switch off and reconnect the negative battery cable. Now put the key in and turn to the "On" position and wait for 5 seconds (you will hear at least one maybe two click sounds from the IAC) then start the engine.