Dodge Ram Van The full size Dodge Ram Van that showed that we can go and do as we please. Discuss the Dodge Ram Van here today.

Tune Up Tips

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-27-2009, 01:06 PM
banner1124's Avatar
banner1124
banner1124 is offline
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Tune Up Tips

Hello all. I just recently bought a 1999 Dodge B1500 van, 5.9L. When I buy a new van I like to give it a tune up right away, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. Probably gonna put a new coil on too cause that's easy enough to do. Anyway, I've noticed in checking out the engine that it's a tad tighter than the other dodge vans I've owned in the past (this is my first one newer than 1995), and it looks like I may have a bit more difficulty reaching the 1 and 2 plugs than usual. Just wanted to know if anyone out there has any tips that would make reaching and removing the 1 and 2 plugs a bit easier? Based on what i'm seeing I'm envisioning a bit of frustration trying to get to those. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

**Also, any suggestions on what plugs would be best to use?
 

Last edited by banner1124; 07-27-2009 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Added content
  #2  
Old 07-27-2009, 02:59 PM
alloro's Avatar
alloro
alloro is offline
Van & CUV Section Moderator
Dodge Forum Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,218
Received 93 Likes on 83 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by banner1124
Just wanted to know if anyone out there has any tips that would make reaching and removing the 1 and 2 plugs a bit easier?
Other than trying to reach them from the front, there isn't much you can do except take your time.

Regarding your cap and rotor, the aluminum contact ones fail very easily in these vans. It is a general consensus to only use ones with brass or gold plated contacts.
 
  #3  
Old 07-28-2009, 03:41 PM
banner1124's Avatar
banner1124
banner1124 is offline
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by alloro
Other than trying to reach them from the front, there isn't much you can do except take your time.

Regarding your cap and rotor, the aluminum contact ones fail very easily in these vans. It is a general consensus to only use ones with brass or gold plated contacts.
Thanks for the input. Here's another question, while I've got it apart I'm thinking of going ahead and replacing the thermostat... my question is that it appears, to me, that I may have to remove the alternator to actually get at the thermo housing... is that true?
 
  #4  
Old 07-28-2009, 10:27 PM
Mobile Auto Repair's Avatar
Mobile Auto Repair
Mobile Auto Repair is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: May 2008
Location: North TX
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yes you will. Do not forget to disconnect the battery before removing the alternator. You will need to remove the AC compressor rear bracket as well. You may find that you need to remove the three plugs on the PCM as well, I would only do that as a last resort. Tighten the bolts to the thermostat housing to 200 inch pounds, do not over tighten.

You may want to change the heater hose beside the thermostat housing as well.
 
  #5  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:31 PM
cudajim's Avatar
cudajim
cudajim is offline
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I did the plugs in my 94 318 van and I recall #1 plug I accessed either from the bottom or the front. I would not replace the thermostat unless it's bad, it's sort of a bitch to get to and it may leak after you're done so "if it ain't broke don't fix it."
 
  #6  
Old 07-30-2009, 08:03 PM
Mobile Auto Repair's Avatar
Mobile Auto Repair
Mobile Auto Repair is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: May 2008
Location: North TX
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by cudajim
I did the plugs in my 94 318 van and I recall #1 plug I accessed either from the bottom or the front.
On the 98 and newer vans the engine is moved forward about 4 or 6 inches which puts the front four plugs before the firewall where as the 97 and older vans the engine starts at the firewall so the front plugs on the newer vans are a pain to get to.

On my 97 I can change all the plugs through the doghouse opening. On one of the company vans I had to change the front two from under the hood. And the #4 plug was a pain to get the boot off for it is right at the fire wall opening.
 
  #7  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:05 PM
clamdigger63's Avatar
clamdigger63
clamdigger63 is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default tune up 1500 van

I am new to this site, thank you for letting me join. I own a 2002 Ram Van, 5.2 engine, Here's my question: the steel sleeve that surrounds the spark plug wont allow access to spark plug, my socket wont fit into hole, what is the best way to proceed? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
 
  #8  
Old 08-19-2013, 11:29 PM
sparkzz's Avatar
sparkzz
sparkzz is offline
Veteran
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Orleans area
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have a 2000. I was able to get to them from the doghouse side with a swivel extension and a thin walled socket. Slide the front seat all the way back so you have more room to work. I also have a piece of rubber hose that fits snugly around the top of the plug, and use that after I break it loose to screw it all the way out.
 

Last edited by sparkzz; 08-19-2013 at 11:35 PM.
  #9  
Old 08-21-2013, 02:25 PM
Tommy555's Avatar
Tommy555
Tommy555 is offline
Professional
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have a 1998 conversion van (5.2L), and I've recently replaced my spark plugs. I did all 8 of them from the inside of the van, but some were a real pain to get to. The 4 (two on each side) that were closest to the inside of the van were really easy to get to, but the other 4 were placed more towards the front of the van and were a bit of a pain to get to. Basically, if you have a small ratchet extension, a thin walled socket and a ratchet with a bendable neck, you can get the job done much easier. I ran into a few issues while doing my plugs:

1) After removing one of the spark plug wires from one of the plugs, the metal piece that connects to the back of the spark plug pulled off from the wire connector. I ended up having to recrimp the metal back on to the wire. It wasn't a big deal, but it added some extra time to the job.

2) One plug was a beast to unscrew and it was fighting me at every inch of the way (I was starting to worry about my head being ruined), but I finally managed to get it out after a good amount of time working on it. By the time I was able to finally unscrew that one plug, I probably could have done 2 or 3 other plugs.

So, you may run into some issues, but just take your time. Also, wear some gloves if you can. After being arm-deep in the engine trying to get to the farthest away plugs, you will probably end up getting a few nicks and cuts on your hands and arms trying to maneuver around in there. I did.
 
  #10  
Old 10-21-2013, 10:48 PM
andthatsalrightwithme's Avatar
andthatsalrightwithme
andthatsalrightwithme is offline
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yeah, I got hit by a school bus on my motorcycle because of this, LOL
I was in the middle of a tune up, had gotten wires, cap, rotor and 4 of the plugs done and could see no way whatsoever to get to the front (or back?) plugs so I took first one son and then the other to school and right after dropping the second one off, whammo.
Was quoted like 50 bucks for a shop to do the other four which turned into 170 some because as it turned out, they had to be extremely careful so as not to risk breaking them off due to the massive rusting I bought the van with. I swear it sat under Katrina or something. I was amazed every time I laid under it to change the oil.
 


Quick Reply: Tune Up Tips



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:46 PM.