Fuel pump and coil just quit??????
#11
Here is what I came up with from looking at the schematic.
The dark blue and the blue/w wires are the wires for the relay coil.
The red wire is the input source wire and the green wire is the output .
Same config for both relays.
The red wire comes from the power distribution center that that is supplied from the + side of the battery. So the red wire should not be grounded. And thats what I'm getting red wire grounded key on or off.
Not sure why the red wire woulb be grounded, unless it is just a dead short to something. But then I should find a blown maxi or something. Do you still think it might be the ignition switch?
The dark blue and the blue/w wires are the wires for the relay coil.
The red wire is the input source wire and the green wire is the output .
Same config for both relays.
The red wire comes from the power distribution center that that is supplied from the + side of the battery. So the red wire should not be grounded. And thats what I'm getting red wire grounded key on or off.
Not sure why the red wire woulb be grounded, unless it is just a dead short to something. But then I should find a blown maxi or something. Do you still think it might be the ignition switch?
#12
Key Off
ASD relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=ground
blue/w wire=ground
Key on
ASD relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=12vdc
blue/w wire=12vdc
Key Off
Fuel Pump relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=ground
blue/w wire=ground
key on
fuel pump relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=12vdc
blue/w=12vdc
ASD relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=ground
blue/w wire=ground
Key on
ASD relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=12vdc
blue/w wire=12vdc
Key Off
Fuel Pump relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=ground
blue/w wire=ground
key on
fuel pump relay
red wire=ground
dark blue wire=12vdc
blue/w=12vdc
The red wire should be +12v all the time even with the key off. The dark blue wire should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions. The blue/white (some models its blue/yellow) should be ground when the key is in the start or run positions. The 4th ASD wire should be dark green/orange and should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions. The 4th fuel pump relay wire should be dark green black and should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions.
#13
It looks like you've overlooked a blown fuse, or that large black connector that comes off the battery's positive terminal is corroded inside.
#14
You're missing a wire on each relay, there should be 4 for each and you only list 3 wires each.
The red wire should be +12v all the time even with the key off. The dark blue wire should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions. The blue/white (some models its blue/yellow) should be ground when the key is in the start or run positions. The 4th ASD wire should be dark green/orange and should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions. The 4th fuel pump relay wire should be dark green black and should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions.
The red wire should be +12v all the time even with the key off. The dark blue wire should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions. The blue/white (some models its blue/yellow) should be ground when the key is in the start or run positions. The 4th ASD wire should be dark green/orange and should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions. The 4th fuel pump relay wire should be dark green black and should be +12v when the key is in the start or run positions.
#15
The red wire only appears to be grounded. What's actually happening is you're getting continuity through a component on that circuit to ground. So the current is flowing from the +12v through your meter, through the red wire, through some component on the circuit, and onto ground.
It looks like you've overlooked a blown fuse, or that large black connector that comes off the battery's positive terminal is corroded inside.
It looks like you've overlooked a blown fuse, or that large black connector that comes off the battery's positive terminal is corroded inside.
Thats what I was starting to think (hope). I have went through everything on the van and I could not find any blown fuses or fusible links. I could not any fusible links period. I did not check the black connector. I'm going to do that tomorrow, and go through all of the fuses again. Looking at the schematic there is not much between power distribution center the input to the relays. Just a 30A maxi fuse and the black connector from the battery through the PWR DIS CNT and into the relays.
#16
Don't overlook the splice in that wire (S105). If that splice has gone bad, it could be your point of power loss. And no, before you ask...I don't know where it is. You would have to start at the big black connector and trace the big red wire (it's a #6 gauge wire) to find S105.
Last edited by alloro; 08-31-2009 at 02:49 AM. Reason: Corrected S101 to instead read S105
#17
Don't overlook the splice in that wire (S101). If that splice has gone bad, it could be your point of power loss. And no, before you ask...I don't know where it is. You would have to start at the big black connector and trace the big red wire (it's a #6 gauge wire) to find S101.
I'm looking at the schematic, and I see an S105 between the black connector and the pwr dis cntr. S101, I think comes off of the ignition switch to power the coil of the relay.
Did you mean s105?
Thanks for the help
#18
#19
#20
Take a look at the drawing below. It shows how the meter will pick up a ground through a component like the fuel pump. All that is inside the pump is a coil of wires. This is why the output of the relay is giving you a ground. Once the relay gets energized and the contacts close, that side of the fuel pump will become +12v.