Question about first time buying used dodge van
#21
too bad you had a shutter, I've only had that problem with 200,000 plus torque converters. Did you ever think that it could have been the fault of the trans shop's converter supplier?
I've had one reman converter fail within 5,000 miles, pulled the trans sent it back, they sent me another and the $ for my 2nd repair (Midstates trans in Davenport, IA)
I was a service trainer for chrysler in the early-mid 90's. I personally talked with the guys that designed +3. I know what the 'magic' ingrediant is. With the knowledge I gained, I know what does and does not work. Heck even TypeF works if you like really agressive clutch apply.
I've had one reman converter fail within 5,000 miles, pulled the trans sent it back, they sent me another and the $ for my 2nd repair (Midstates trans in Davenport, IA)
I was a service trainer for chrysler in the early-mid 90's. I personally talked with the guys that designed +3. I know what the 'magic' ingrediant is. With the knowledge I gained, I know what does and does not work. Heck even TypeF works if you like really agressive clutch apply.
#22
Back in the day...shift kits used a greenish colored trick shift fluid instead of the OEM specified tranny fluid. The stuff was rather expensive, something like $6 a quart. I'm talking 30 years ago, so yes $6 a quart was considered rather expensive. As an alternate to running this expensive fluid, many gear heads of the time use Ford type F fluid in the Chrysler trannys that had shift kits in them. All of the trannys held up fine and no one ever cooked one.
#23
You're talking about B&M trick shift fluid.
I always used Gil Younger shift kits and in all his directions, he says use type F. works fine for me and a lot cheaper.
I've even ran typeF on a 604 trans in my wife's van. It blew a line on her and I towed it home. all I had in my shop at the time was type F so I tossed it in. Well 3 years later and 50,000 miles, my wife is still driving the van and I like the grabby clutch apply. but I don't use this for customers because they may not like it's more aggressive feel.
I always used Gil Younger shift kits and in all his directions, he says use type F. works fine for me and a lot cheaper.
I've even ran typeF on a 604 trans in my wife's van. It blew a line on her and I towed it home. all I had in my shop at the time was type F so I tossed it in. Well 3 years later and 50,000 miles, my wife is still driving the van and I like the grabby clutch apply. but I don't use this for customers because they may not like it's more aggressive feel.
#24
I have to agree with you on the grabby feel and you're correct to not put it in customer's cars. If you did and their tranny failed, most people would see it as an excuse to blame you for their tranny failure and try to get a free rebuild out of you. Who needs that grief!
#25
22dodge wrote:
"I've only had that problem with 200,000 plus torque converters. Did you ever think that it could have been the fault of the trans shop's converter supplier?"
2 different torque converters, installed on opposite sides of the country both chattered in overdrive, until ATF +3 replaced the universal fluid.
Why would I suspect the converters when the recommended fluid fixed the problem?
Are you actually recommending that people switch to a fluid not recommended by the manufacturer on your say so?
You obviously have a lot of knowledge to add to this forum, but you are coming off as a real douche bag.
"I've only had that problem with 200,000 plus torque converters. Did you ever think that it could have been the fault of the trans shop's converter supplier?"
2 different torque converters, installed on opposite sides of the country both chattered in overdrive, until ATF +3 replaced the universal fluid.
Why would I suspect the converters when the recommended fluid fixed the problem?
Are you actually recommending that people switch to a fluid not recommended by the manufacturer on your say so?
You obviously have a lot of knowledge to add to this forum, but you are coming off as a real douche bag.
Last edited by landyacht318; 09-19-2009 at 12:42 AM.
#26
OK if you want to use name calling, you are a freaking retard... so there.
I'm saying you have a peice of crap and it's good that you had problems because YOU deserve it!
I ONLY use dexron on my street transmissions. I also use TypeF in my chrysler transmissions for racing applications. I know what the ingredients are for +3 and +4 (which is the same stuff that Dexron IV is now using).
I dont care what you think with your minimal mental capacity. I know what works and thats what I use. I know what works for me and I'm saying it from real life experience. If +3/+4 is the cure all for all chrysler transmissions and anything else will $hit the bed, why did you're trans die? If this stuff is the BEST, then there should NEVER be a trans failure. But funny thing is, I've got my rebuilds out there with 200,000+ miles still going when the orignals were failing at under 100,000. I guess the fluid wasn't the reason.
I'm saying you have a peice of crap and it's good that you had problems because YOU deserve it!
I ONLY use dexron on my street transmissions. I also use TypeF in my chrysler transmissions for racing applications. I know what the ingredients are for +3 and +4 (which is the same stuff that Dexron IV is now using).
I dont care what you think with your minimal mental capacity. I know what works and thats what I use. I know what works for me and I'm saying it from real life experience. If +3/+4 is the cure all for all chrysler transmissions and anything else will $hit the bed, why did you're trans die? If this stuff is the BEST, then there should NEVER be a trans failure. But funny thing is, I've got my rebuilds out there with 200,000+ miles still going when the orignals were failing at under 100,000. I guess the fluid wasn't the reason.