Fuel System Problem
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Fuel System Problem
Have a weird issue with my 96 Ram Van 2500 W/ 5.2L and 36 Gallon tank.
When the fuel level hits between 1/2 and 1/4 tank the van will starve for gas and start mis-firing on multiple cylinders.
If I go fuel up again, it's fine... it seems to only occur at higher speeds as well.
Fairly sure it's not an injector or dirty fuel system because it'd be doing it all the time, not just when the fuel level is between 1/2-1/4 tank. I read in a earlier post that it's most likely a bad fuel pump that's acting up when the fuel level is lower (because the pump will run hotter when the fuel is lower????)
Any thoughts? I'd hate to spend $786 (what the dealer quoted me for replacing the pump) and be wrong.
When the fuel level hits between 1/2 and 1/4 tank the van will starve for gas and start mis-firing on multiple cylinders.
If I go fuel up again, it's fine... it seems to only occur at higher speeds as well.
Fairly sure it's not an injector or dirty fuel system because it'd be doing it all the time, not just when the fuel level is between 1/2-1/4 tank. I read in a earlier post that it's most likely a bad fuel pump that's acting up when the fuel level is lower (because the pump will run hotter when the fuel is lower????)
Any thoughts? I'd hate to spend $786 (what the dealer quoted me for replacing the pump) and be wrong.
It's really simple to change your pump out. It is your pump and here's what may be happening. The pump has a safety mechanism that prevents the pump from powering on and running when the tank is nearly empty. Well, in your case, it's out of calibration and, it is putting out a false level thus triggering the failsafe mechanism or, intermittently triggering this.
They design this in to prevent the pump from running without fuel in the tank. This ensures that it does not ignite fuel vapors in the tank and explode.
It's just an electro-mechanical switch and this happens quite a bit. Especially towards the winter time too. It's quite common to see this happen.
Here's the process for removing and replacing your fuel pump.
-disconnect the neg battery cable
-jack the rear of the vehicle up in the air as high as you can get it
-loosen the clamps on both the fuel inlet hose and the rollover vent tube
-break those free with a pair of channel locks from their fill and vent tubes
-pull them off and tape the ends to prevent debri from entering into the tank thus ruining the new pump.
-sit up straight and find the pump on the top of the tank.
-first pull the small rubber vent line off
-then push the orange safety clip over to one side at the electrical connector
-remove the electrical connector NOTE: you may have to use needle nose or a small screwdriver to move the safety tab on the E-connector
-pinch both tabs at the fuel inlet line and gently rock / wiggle it off the regulator
- Now that all are disconnected, it's time to start focusing on dropping the tank
-Place a floor jack under the tank to support it. NOTE: this works if the tank is nearly empty, however, if tank is more than half full, make a sled and attach it to the jack or simply use a tranny jack. The sled can be anything that supports the tank and will prevent it from rolling over and toppling end down.
-Using a 15MM deep well socket, remove both bolts from the tank straps.
-Take a prybar or equivalent and pry the tank support straps over the stud fasteners.
-remove the tank straps by lowering the tank slightly and pushing it over towards the pass side. This allows you to pull the straps out of the T-slots
-Once the straps have been removed, lower the tank and slide it out where you can work on it.
-Remove the plastic retention ring with either a band clamp or medium U-clamp and set aside.
-Remove the old pump
-Remove old pump seal and put the new one in that comes with new pump.
-Replace old pump with new Carter pump that has a metal basket filter on the bottom. NOTE: pay attention of the seal when placing it into the tank so that the seal does not roll or buckle as your putting it in. Also, avoid getting dirt and / or debris into tank as this is sure way to ruin the new pump. FYI on that one. You may also want to inspect the inside of the tank to ensure it's clean. Mine was a mess and loaded with rust at one time. In those cases, flush it before placing the new pump in. Also, clean the filler tube and vent tube while your at it because, on mine, my filler tubes were very rusted on the inside. Use a large wire brush from below then flush them out before putting the tank back in.
-Orient the pump to the arrow on the tank. (if applicable)
-Place the ring on and tighten. There is a spec for this per OEM and it's also called out in the Haynes manual as well.
-Place the tank on the floorjack and raise it up but leave it a bit loose for now
-Place the tank straps into the T-slots
-Lie underneath and align the tank to the fuel line.
-Raise it up all the way now.
-Pry the tank straps back over the stud fasteners and put the nuts on.
-Tighten per OEM or Haynes spec
-Reconnect the rollover vent tube, the electrical connector and lastly, the fuel fitting.
-Reconnect the negative battery cable and your done.
-Add some gas in there and go fill it up a bit and test it.
Good luck and hope that helps you save some money as well as provides and aid in helping you do it yourself.
CM
They design this in to prevent the pump from running without fuel in the tank. This ensures that it does not ignite fuel vapors in the tank and explode.
It's just an electro-mechanical switch and this happens quite a bit. Especially towards the winter time too. It's quite common to see this happen.
Here's the process for removing and replacing your fuel pump.
-disconnect the neg battery cable
-jack the rear of the vehicle up in the air as high as you can get it
-loosen the clamps on both the fuel inlet hose and the rollover vent tube
-break those free with a pair of channel locks from their fill and vent tubes
-pull them off and tape the ends to prevent debri from entering into the tank thus ruining the new pump.
-sit up straight and find the pump on the top of the tank.
-first pull the small rubber vent line off
-then push the orange safety clip over to one side at the electrical connector
-remove the electrical connector NOTE: you may have to use needle nose or a small screwdriver to move the safety tab on the E-connector
-pinch both tabs at the fuel inlet line and gently rock / wiggle it off the regulator
- Now that all are disconnected, it's time to start focusing on dropping the tank
-Place a floor jack under the tank to support it. NOTE: this works if the tank is nearly empty, however, if tank is more than half full, make a sled and attach it to the jack or simply use a tranny jack. The sled can be anything that supports the tank and will prevent it from rolling over and toppling end down.
-Using a 15MM deep well socket, remove both bolts from the tank straps.
-Take a prybar or equivalent and pry the tank support straps over the stud fasteners.
-remove the tank straps by lowering the tank slightly and pushing it over towards the pass side. This allows you to pull the straps out of the T-slots
-Once the straps have been removed, lower the tank and slide it out where you can work on it.
-Remove the plastic retention ring with either a band clamp or medium U-clamp and set aside.
-Remove the old pump
-Remove old pump seal and put the new one in that comes with new pump.
-Replace old pump with new Carter pump that has a metal basket filter on the bottom. NOTE: pay attention of the seal when placing it into the tank so that the seal does not roll or buckle as your putting it in. Also, avoid getting dirt and / or debris into tank as this is sure way to ruin the new pump. FYI on that one. You may also want to inspect the inside of the tank to ensure it's clean. Mine was a mess and loaded with rust at one time. In those cases, flush it before placing the new pump in. Also, clean the filler tube and vent tube while your at it because, on mine, my filler tubes were very rusted on the inside. Use a large wire brush from below then flush them out before putting the tank back in.
-Orient the pump to the arrow on the tank. (if applicable)
-Place the ring on and tighten. There is a spec for this per OEM and it's also called out in the Haynes manual as well.
-Place the tank on the floorjack and raise it up but leave it a bit loose for now
-Place the tank straps into the T-slots
-Lie underneath and align the tank to the fuel line.
-Raise it up all the way now.
-Pry the tank straps back over the stud fasteners and put the nuts on.
-Tighten per OEM or Haynes spec
-Reconnect the rollover vent tube, the electrical connector and lastly, the fuel fitting.
-Reconnect the negative battery cable and your done.
-Add some gas in there and go fill it up a bit and test it.
Good luck and hope that helps you save some money as well as provides and aid in helping you do it yourself.
CM
