Ignition settings & TBi questions. Van B250 w/318
Hi.
I recently bought this '88 B250 LE with TBi on it.
The car & drivetrain is in good shape, despite the previous owner(s)' been neglecting maintenance a bit.
After giving the car (BTW, her name is Dodgey) new oil, plugs, cap & rotor, filters and so on, it's time to check ignition and mixture:
How many degrees BTDC should i put it?
Is there any way to adjust the amount of fuel to the 2 injectors?
Can these injectors wear out?
All in all, how do i get this beauty to go longest pr. gallon?
Any tips & informations are welcome. I'm new to the TBi system, as i've been driving Volvos with Bosch injection...'till recently
I recently bought this '88 B250 LE with TBi on it.
The car & drivetrain is in good shape, despite the previous owner(s)' been neglecting maintenance a bit.
After giving the car (BTW, her name is Dodgey) new oil, plugs, cap & rotor, filters and so on, it's time to check ignition and mixture:
How many degrees BTDC should i put it?
Is there any way to adjust the amount of fuel to the 2 injectors?
Can these injectors wear out?
All in all, how do i get this beauty to go longest pr. gallon?
Any tips & informations are welcome. I'm new to the TBi system, as i've been driving Volvos with Bosch injection...'till recently
10 degrees BTDC
The ECM/SMEC (computer) actually controls the fuel mixture through inputs by the coolant temp sensor, The O2 sensor, and the air charge intake sensor.
Everything with moving parts wear out eventually, injectors included.
Checking for stored computer codes can reveal if any sensors are receiving the wrong inputs which can effect fuel economy. Do a search for the key dance, and OBD1 mopar codes.
Any cracked vacuum lines can cause rich running and poor fuel economy.
Get a new distributor cap which has brass or copper contacts instead of the aluminum.
For best fuel economy, slow down, and accelerate slowly. Synthetic lubricants, especially in the differential help. Some tires have lower rolling resistance, and proper inflation is a factor as well. Also take out all the extra unnecessary weight from within.
Having a healthy, fully charged battery can also cause less stress on the alternator, meaning less friction on the engine.
An electric radiator fan, as opposed to the belt driven stock fan can also improve fuel economy.
If you change the tranny fluid, make sure it is replaced with ATF+4. Quick lube and chain tranny shops cannot be trusted in this matter.
ATF +4 is Synthetic and pricey, and the only thing available which should be put into our transmissions. Wally world sells Mopar atf +4 for about 4$ a quart as well as their own labelled atf+4 at just over 3$ a quart. Supposively they are made at the same factory as all ATF +4 is. The dealer will try to sell it to you for 12 to 18$ a quart.
The ECM/SMEC (computer) actually controls the fuel mixture through inputs by the coolant temp sensor, The O2 sensor, and the air charge intake sensor.
Everything with moving parts wear out eventually, injectors included.
Checking for stored computer codes can reveal if any sensors are receiving the wrong inputs which can effect fuel economy. Do a search for the key dance, and OBD1 mopar codes.
Any cracked vacuum lines can cause rich running and poor fuel economy.
Get a new distributor cap which has brass or copper contacts instead of the aluminum.
For best fuel economy, slow down, and accelerate slowly. Synthetic lubricants, especially in the differential help. Some tires have lower rolling resistance, and proper inflation is a factor as well. Also take out all the extra unnecessary weight from within.
Having a healthy, fully charged battery can also cause less stress on the alternator, meaning less friction on the engine.
An electric radiator fan, as opposed to the belt driven stock fan can also improve fuel economy.
If you change the tranny fluid, make sure it is replaced with ATF+4. Quick lube and chain tranny shops cannot be trusted in this matter.
ATF +4 is Synthetic and pricey, and the only thing available which should be put into our transmissions. Wally world sells Mopar atf +4 for about 4$ a quart as well as their own labelled atf+4 at just over 3$ a quart. Supposively they are made at the same factory as all ATF +4 is. The dealer will try to sell it to you for 12 to 18$ a quart.
Thanks for the reply. No need to eat hats, i'm a he.
I'll check out the timing and vac hoses etc.
If i can find an A500 OD gearbox in proper condition, i think it'll do the trick.
It's the mission for me to squeeze the last mile out of every gallon...here in DK, the fuel price is as follows:
DKr. 10,65 pr. liter regular (92 octane) .
It's about 7,40$ / gallon.
How much is a gallon of go-juice over there?
I'll check out the timing and vac hoses etc.
If i can find an A500 OD gearbox in proper condition, i think it'll do the trick.
It's the mission for me to squeeze the last mile out of every gallon...here in DK, the fuel price is as follows:
DKr. 10,65 pr. liter regular (92 octane) .
It's about 7,40$ / gallon.
How much is a gallon of go-juice over there?
About 1/3 of what you're paying.
In california The cheapes I can currently get 87 octane is $2.99 a gallon.
If you slap an A500 in there, it would need a method of activating the OD and lock up as they are electricly engaged.
If you want it to be automatic, you will have to get an ecm from a Van with an a500.
Without overdrive, my rpms are way to high at 100 km/h
If you slap an A500 in there, it would need a method of activating the OD and lock up as they are electricly engaged.
If you want it to be automatic, you will have to get an ecm from a Van with an a500.
Without overdrive, my rpms are way to high at 100 km/h
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A little update:
I got me a donor car with a500.
As landyacht wrote above, will it just do with swapping the ECM and mounting the OD switch? Anybody who knows if the wiring is the same (so there will be a harness for the OD button and OD wire to the gearbox? Or do i have to built the wiring harnesses together.
Thanks for the help so far.
I got me a donor car with a500.
As landyacht wrote above, will it just do with swapping the ECM and mounting the OD switch? Anybody who knows if the wiring is the same (so there will be a harness for the OD button and OD wire to the gearbox? Or do i have to built the wiring harnesses together.
Thanks for the help so far.






