A map sensor code does not necessarily mean there is a problem with the Map sensor, It can mean the parameters that the ECM is looking for from the Map sensor are out of range.

With you other symptoms, I think you have a vaccuum leak somewhere. Put a garden type hose or similar up to your ear, and with the other end, follow all the vaccuum lines listening for a hiss. Do not forget about the power brake booster. A big vacuum line runs up there. A vacuum leak can cause all your symptoms, except the code 15.

You should test the VSS by spinning it with an OHM meter on the 2 contacts. In your photo the 2 little contacts which are opened and closed by the spinning magnet are obscured. You can just see them in the photo I posted a link to.

If they are stuck together, the VSS is not working. They are enclosed within a hard clear sheath. Replacement might be the only option.

 

When I tried to view the video all I got was this message, "The video you have requested is not available."

 

Maybe i was too quick to post the video, it seems it hadn't finished process by the time i posted.
It works now for me...

 

You have a vacuum leak.

 

Now i've gone trough all vac hoses on the engine, including the brake booster, no leaks. The MAP sensor was tested again, this time by unplugging it = bad idle, and then pulling off the hose = bad idle. So it seems to work on the basic side. Can it give wrong info to the ECM without being completely faulty?
The VSS was tested by using an Ohm-meter and spinning it with fingers, reads out this: 1, 0,592, 1, 0,587, 1, 0,574, 1 and so on. The 0,5xx numbers vary many times as i spin. Conclusion; the VSS makes diff. signals, but does it give the wrong signals?
The Now i've gone trough all vac hoses on the engine, including the brake booster, no leaks. The MAP sensor was tested again, this time by unplugging it = bad idle, and then pulling off the hose = bad idle. So it seems to work on the basic side. Can it give wrong info to the ECM without being completely faulty?
The VSS was tested by using an Ohm-meter and spinning it with fingers, reads out this: 1, 0,592, 1, 0,587, 1, 0,674, 1 and so on. So it gives signals, but are they the right ones?
The VSS and MAP wiring / connections has also been overlooked, looks complete and in fine condition.
Is it possible to, and how do i test the wiring from VSS and MAP, to see if there's power going trough? What's the proper volt etc. values on these wires? Replacing MAP and VSS doesn't get me anywhere, if it's wiring or ECM that causes the trouble.

 

The VSS is fed 5 volts from the ECM. The spinning magnet opens and closes the contact in the interior. The ohm meter should read 1,0,1,0,1,0 as the contacts open and close. That's how mine works. It will read numbers in the middle only very very briefly as it is switching from 1 to 0 and back but will never pause at anything in between. So if you test for voltage, One wire should have 5 volts, the other nothing.

A code 15 will not disappear until the vehicle is driven, if the VSS and it's wiring are indeed working. Before I had issues with the interior contacts getting sticky, I had issues with water accumulating in the connector. Even after I cleaned and sealed the connector, sometimes it would not work because the barrels were not grabbing the pins tightly due to the previous corrosion caused by the sitting water, and the cleaning procedure. Rolling up a small bit of aluminum foil was a temporary fix. Eventually I removed the barrels from the connector and put them directly over the pins on the VSS and filled it with silicone.



The map sensor is also fed 5 volts from the ecm, and it outputs a different voltage depending on the amount of vaccuum. I do not think the Map sensor is your problem. Your video really makes it sound like a vacuum leak, which would cause the loping idle and a code 13.

Maybee you should remove the throttle body and clean it out thoroughly. Don't over look all the vaccuum ports on the back( from the drivers seat.) There are gaskets that might be damaged and need to be replaced. Especially the removable little panel on the back. Rock Auto sells replacements. I made my own with a razor blade and gasket material.

The EGR valve also runs off of engine vacuum. If the pintle is not moving up and down with a slight delay with the throttle, It could be stuck partially open. If it is stuck closed, no worries, you have already passed your emissions test.

The EGR valve is on the drivers side of the intake manifold. It recirculates some exhaust gasses back into the intake to lower combustion temperatures in an attempt to reduce NO formation. After I pass my smog test, I remove and plug up the vacuum line to the EGR. It runs slightly better.

Another thing is to check the battery connections. I've seen a weak battery cause stalling on later models, and poor connections cause loping/surging on earlier models. Don't just look. Remove them and make the lead look like silver. Also check the battery to engine ground, the battery to firewall ground and the engine to frame ground. There might not be an engine to frame ground. Add one. If the battery cables have white or green corrosion, replace them.

There is also a ground wire from the ECM. Mine attaches under the foot of the coil.