just bought a 95 v6 1500 for my son, thing runs good, a little rich installed new plugs wires cap rotor oil change air filter and had a code for tps so i replaced it. cleaned out AIC (nasty) new serp belt, alt tested fine new battery. so i finally drive it to the glass company for a new windshield, temp gauge reads fine but engine ticking like mad after a short drive. pulled cap expecting it to be empty or something and it was basically pure foam. got it back to the house and flushed it with prestone flush. now its foaming even worse. checked compression 1-5 145 psi #6 135. all the plugs look okay, #3 was a little oily and all of them were on the black side. but i think it may have been running rich because of the bad tps. temp gauge still reads low or normal. so after i post this i am off to harbor freight to get a temp tester. when i did drain the radiator to do the flush the water (about 1 gallon) was dark green. i did pull the thermostat out but it is foaming so bad i cant even tell if any water is moving thru the system. i dont here any sound from the water pump as in going bad.

 

First disconnect the lower radiator hose and remove the t-stat housing. Then power flush the block, heater core and radiator with a garden hose. That foam looks like it's from radiator flush still mixed up in the system.

 

Dragonrir,
You are the master of posts about a foamy radiator.

I think you are right in your theory that the water pump is bad . Since it was foamy before you added the radiator flush, I believe it likely that a bunch remained in the block, if the h20 pump is not flowing much.

I know you cannot see water flowing through the radiator cap with all the foam, but you should be able to feel it flow when squeezing/holding the top hose with the engine upto full temp.

If the block is also filled with foam, I doubt the sending unit would relay a correct signal to the dash temp gauge or 2 wire cts for the pcm. If you heard massive ticking, it was too hot. Don't crack this block like your '89.

 

What are you, his personal service log?

 

Well his screen name is easily recognizable, and his writing style as well.

After talking with a mechanic Buddy of mine about foamy radiators, I was about to heavily edit my last post.

I showed him the pictures.

His response:

" It looks like someone poured dish soap in his radiator, perhaps someone is playing a trick on him. Or maybe he is playing a trick on the forum."

He has been turning wrenches for 40 years, and has never seen that degree even with blown head gaskets.

He recommended testing the coolant for hydrocarbons and/or Checking the oil for coolant.

He said the only way he could imagine that level of bubbles before adding the flush is if all the blades on the water pump's impeller had sheared off, and there was already a something in the coolant besides ethelyen glycol.

 

as far as coolant in the oil. there is none. there is no thermostat in the engine at this time. so water should be flowing at it is. i removed the radiator cap and cranked the throttle. a huge surge of coolant splashed out of cap. with it low i was able to see flow coming from the left side of the radiator. moving across the opening.

alloro i am not sure i understand all the instructions. how do i flush the heater core as you say. as far as the rest of it i understand. i have to go back to HF to return the therm. i know my exhaust pipe is not 78 degrees right now.

the water pump does not appear to be original. it is much cleaner then the rest of the block area. the coolant level also seems to stay the same. this van isnt being driven at all but each time i pull the cap the level is right at the top. but as soon as you start it it just pours foam.

 

flushed engine drained out again, disconnected hose at top of radiator and started van, water pushed right out. stuck garden hose down in radiator fill cap and let fresh water flow in. 20 minutes of pumping water in and letting it flow out of top hose while engine runs (clear water). drained radiator. 1/2 gallon 100% green autozone coolant and balance in water. started engine and idled can see water flow thru no problem as there is no thermostat. rev engine, foams right up let idle 3-5 minutes foam disappears and flows thru clean. lazer temps:
top of radiator tank 140
bottom of tank 155
front block right side 125
back right side at head 170
back left side at head 175
front left block 155
water pump itself 145
water lines main in to pump, out, 2 heater lines avg 110
exhaust manifold 1-3 at pipe 400
exhaust manifold 2-6 at pipe 385
intake below throttle body avg all 4 sides 115 +/- 3 deg

 

Regarding the use of the IR thermometers, and don't take offense of you already know this.

The laser point is just a general guide where the IR sensor is pointing. It is not reading the temperature at the exact point of the laser. When 2 feet away from the source to be measured, the IR beam is 3 inches in diameter. It will average the temp from across the 3 inch wide area. So the closer you get the IR gun to what you want to measure, the more accurate it is.

Hoping for an accurate read from further than 3 feet away, on a small object is a fruitless endeavor.

The IR thermometer is consistently inaccurate on shiny, reflective objects, and liquids.

Sometimes mine gives innaccurate readings for no apparent reason. I find pointing it at the clear sky till it reads (---), or pointing it at the base of a pot of boiling water til lit goes above 500 degrees, causes accuracy to return.

Removing the battery, has never reset it and allowed accuracy to retunr.

Mine is a Raytek brand.

 

each brand has a different accuracy point but typically it is 8 to 10 times the reading area to distance. each of the above measurements were taken within 18" of surface.

aside from all that,

it is moving the coolant so a water pump with the impeller sheared is not the issue. the foam is snow white not cloudy or dirty. the engine runs and drives very well and no smoke what so ever. i am going to take it to the local radiator shop to have the water tested tomorrow.

 

Remove and check the lower radiator hose for blockage.