So, I have taken our van to 2 shops (one the local dealership) and they just can't get this thing back running.

DISCLAIMER: SORRY FOR THE NOVEL!!!

BACK STORY:
Got the van ~2yrs ago to build an audio shop demo vehicle. Ten 15" DD2500 subs, 16v alt, 16 batts, 2 state records, and 161+dB later...its still running like a champ!!! (less the roof being ripped open from the SPL/pressure...welded that up nicely )


So, the van has been running fine w/ the 16v alt for 2 yrs w/ Kinetic 3-post 16v batts. The alt charges at 17.8v, but but 3-post batts only show 16v+ to the subwoofer amp. The vans electrical runs on the 12v post...Vehicle/Computer never sees over 13.8v w/ the vehicle running.

It ran like a champ for 2yrs, then 4 weeks ago developed a starting problem. It would crank/turn over fine (hell, the 16batt bank in the back insured it had plenty of cranking power). It would turn over for days, but not start. I read only that the IEC may be dirty so I hit it w/ some carb/intake cleaner. It was nice and clean, and ran fine for 1 day. Then, back to cranking and not starting. (when it did start, it would idle rough for a few mins and die).

Had it towed to local shop. The only code it shows was "EVAP". And wouldn't start, fuel pump test reads 45psi . We pulled the gas-cap to relieve any pressure (didn't notice any pressure release), it Idled fine and drove fine.....AGAIN...for about a day. I parked it in the shop bay that night. It was back to the same crank/turn-over but not run the next morning at 10am.

Had it towed to the dealership 2 weeks ago. That have been testing/working on it since (i guess?). Talked to them today, they said the 16v alt HAS TO BE THE PROBLEM!!!
Well...I have to disagree. The stock system never sees over 13.8v. Hell at 6k rpm, its still around 13.8v at the stock electrical/computer!!!! (search kinetic hc16v for more info on the batts)

The van is still throwing the "evap"...so I'm guessing that pressure relief valve, has failed. But even w/ the gas cap off, it still rough idles and dies (if it even starts at all).

The dealership wants us to return the vans alt to stock (also batt) so they can diagnose. Yea...2 weeks later....they want us to tow it home (~$50), replace the alt/batt (30mins)...and tow it back (again ~$50).

WTF?
Anyone that has ever dealt w/ an engine knows that even without a working alt....the engine will continue to run as long as the batts hold enough charge to operate the engine!!! Hell...with 6 batts 12v (at the time) connected to the stock electrical, wouldn't that keep the engine running long enough to diagnose it.... IF you know WTF you are doing and get paid to do so????

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So....
I'm going to the dealership tomorrow after work to:

-replace the 16v alt w/ the stock one
-take the 16v charging system out of the equation
-put an optima yellow top d31 in stock location (fully charged, no dead cells)

In essence, I'm going to make the 12v charging system FAR weaker than what it is currently.

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PLEASE!!!!!!
Do any of these symptoms stand out as common?
Is there a fix that they have overlooked??????

Dear god...should I just get a junk-yard engine/computer and just say to hell with all of this??????

I ask again.
PLEASE!!!

We already missed 1 HUGE carshow this year (Scrapin' the Coast)....we can't miss SicNik. Hell...USACI finals is this October, we NEED to get this van back running!

What in the hell is wrong w/ this van?????????

Thanks a million,
Canaan




on a side note...
search "desiard st pawn" on youtube for vids of the van in action last year.

 

Read my thread " 2000 B1500 - Turns Over, Dash Powers Up...." a little further down from your thread. Maybe it'll sound familiar? I'm on my way to Tampa bright and early tomorrow morning to buy a computer at a salvage yard there (this is what passes for "local" in south Florida!) As a marine electrician who works on boats that have 32, 24 and 12VDC systems and equipment (let's not forget 250 and 125VAC, too) on the same boat, I think you'd better take your van to someone who knows a little bit about electricity! My odometer is at 125,000 miles and this is the first trouble I've had.

 

I see that you cleaned the IAC valve and the van ran good for a day. That might be a sign the IAC valve is simply no good.

 

Oh yeah, that EVAP code can also mean there's a vacuum hose leak for the EVAP system. A vacuum leak could also explain the rough idle and stalling. So all of those symptom might be related.

 

Just another piece of info on the van that I forgot to put in the original post.

Did the on-off-on-off-on code read thing. Dash reads "No Bus".
Guessing this either means either the PCM is dead or its just got a bad connection.

Its will at the dealership.

 

If you take it to a shop and they can't fix it they suck. Plain and simple. If the dealership can't fix it I'd discuss not paying them and try another dealer.

 

Well, dealership fixed the van. After a month of run-around.

Says its a dead PCM.
Oh, really? The same dam thing I TOLD THEM WAS LIKELY the day i brought it in!!!!

So...w/ all their diagnostic equipment, they couldn't have just connected to the PCM and tested its integrity???
Hell, the dash read 'no bus'...so WTF, my guess is there were 3 possibilities for it to read that.

1...bad connection
2...bad dash cluster
3...bad pcm

????


So, their 'testing' cost me $1400...over $600 in labor/diagnostics alone.
On a vehicle w/ a KBB good condition value around $3.5k....in a perfect world.

Also their 'Testing' concluded that our alternator was dead.
I took the alt to have it tested at a local alt/starter shop today, 175a output...nice....yea, that alt is 'dead'. (this is a high-output alt)

Looks like I have to dip into the piggybank and dig up ~$500 more than I was estimating.




My guess is it will throw a code within a month of their 'fix'




I read a little rant on this site about the dealerships reading vin#'s and seeing if you have spent enough w/ them or not, then sticking it to ya.
Well, I just go the shaft....on a less than 70k mile vehicle

 

The voltage regulator for the alternator is built into the PCM. Having a bad PCM could make it look as though the alternator is no good.

 

Yes, I know that.
Aftermarket alt was externally regulated.
They still claim the alt was bad regardless...without testing the alt directly.
At least I have that peace of mind that they didn't fry the alt, they had the aftermarket 1/0ga power lead just hanging w/ no insulation while trying w/ crank the vehicle

Oh well, its fixed.
Just gotta pay them the ransom now.

 

After watching the "windshield break" video I think I may know what happened to the PCM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Az6MQjhRZI
That van has a lot of vibrations when the audio system is cranked up and I would not doubt that the PCM could not handle that over the long haul.

I would suggest isolating the PCM with heavy duty vibration dampeners to minimize damage to it.