daggone 318 that refuses to start! (02 1500 Van)
#1
daggone 318 that refuses to start! (02 1500 Van)
Well this vans giving me the biggest headache ever. So this is what i got.
I was driving the van for 300 miles. no problem. drive it the next day, and when i hold the gas about 1/4 throttle too fast it bogs down like it wants to stall. As soon as i let go it goes back to idling fine. If i gradually push on the throttle it will get up thru rpms with no problems. the following day it wont start at all. it sounds like it wants to fire but as soon as i let go of the key it fires briefly then i get a little gas cloud out of the intake. So far ive checked the coil for resistance, changed plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, and crankshaft position sensor. i have on order a pickup for the distributor that ill try tommorrow but have a feeling that wont solve the problem either. Got more than enough fuel pressure too. Any other ideas? Thanks.
I was driving the van for 300 miles. no problem. drive it the next day, and when i hold the gas about 1/4 throttle too fast it bogs down like it wants to stall. As soon as i let go it goes back to idling fine. If i gradually push on the throttle it will get up thru rpms with no problems. the following day it wont start at all. it sounds like it wants to fire but as soon as i let go of the key it fires briefly then i get a little gas cloud out of the intake. So far ive checked the coil for resistance, changed plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, and crankshaft position sensor. i have on order a pickup for the distributor that ill try tommorrow but have a feeling that wont solve the problem either. Got more than enough fuel pressure too. Any other ideas? Thanks.
#3
I get those conditions sometimes, but only when the engine is cold, and only sometimes. But a while back(2002) I was having that problem, and it was the spark plug wires that were only ~4 to 6 months old.
They bake under the doghouse. I got a set of 35$ Taylors from summit. Longest lasting wires I've ever had on it.
They bake under the doghouse. I got a set of 35$ Taylors from summit. Longest lasting wires I've ever had on it.
#4
no codes. before when it was running i got a random misfire, cyl 4 misfire, and cyl 8 misfire probably cuz of how it was running before it crapped out.
and no i havent tested the tps yet. is there a certain range of resistance i need to be looking for?
and no i havent tested the tps yet. is there a certain range of resistance i need to be looking for?
#5
(A digital meter is preferred for this test, due to the 10ths of a volt readings.)
With the engine OFF and the ignition ON, check the voltage at the center terminal of
the TPS to ground by backprobing the connector.
The voltage should be between 0.2 and 1.4 volts at idle, and just under 4.8v at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). If the TPS does not meet these specifications, replace the TPS.
(An analog meter is preferred for this test because it's easier to spot a skip in the reading, but a digital will work.)
An additional test (ignition off) is to unplug the TPS and connect an ohmmeter from the center pin of the TPS to one of the outside pins. Then slowly move the throttle from idle to WOT and back again. The ohms reading should be smooth throughout the entire throttle range without any skipping (loss of reading). If there is any skipping, replace the TPS.
With the engine OFF and the ignition ON, check the voltage at the center terminal of
the TPS to ground by backprobing the connector.
The voltage should be between 0.2 and 1.4 volts at idle, and just under 4.8v at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). If the TPS does not meet these specifications, replace the TPS.
(An analog meter is preferred for this test because it's easier to spot a skip in the reading, but a digital will work.)
An additional test (ignition off) is to unplug the TPS and connect an ohmmeter from the center pin of the TPS to one of the outside pins. Then slowly move the throttle from idle to WOT and back again. The ohms reading should be smooth throughout the entire throttle range without any skipping (loss of reading). If there is any skipping, replace the TPS.
#6
#7
I can relate to that. The heat under the dog-house is intensive. i would like to put side fender vents to aid in cooling that engine compartment off.
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#8
I am considering adding a pusher type efan in front of my condenser that I would wire up to a timer that would help blow air through the compartment for a few minutes after shut down along with an emergency switch in case of the engine starts to over heat.
Last edited by Mobile Auto Repair; 07-15-2010 at 07:39 PM.