We call it the 'Internal Engine Cover' (now)

 

quick question about the rough idling before I had no spark - the EGR gasket wasn't great when I remove the valve part during the intake manifold removal. So I used some RTV sealant to help it. If I managed to allow a gap between in and out ports would this cause the rough idling (when cold)? I never really got he engine warmed up.

thanks

 

Does your relay look like the photo in my current ASD relay thread, particularly the flush cut of tab 87a?

While the connector of my relay has a spot where a corresponding connector to go, there is nothing there, no wire, no receiver for the tab.

My ASD relay controls only the fuel pump as far as I know.

Did you pull the distributor out when you pulled the manifold? Cause you might have missed a tooth or two on re installation, and now your timings all screwed up.

When you were spraying the electrical contact cleaner, did you disconnect the battery first?

Have you tried resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery.
Are you getting codes 12 and 55 at least?

 

I don't know about the EGR, I dont think the solenoids allow them to open until the engine is warm anyway, but if yours has no seal/ bad seal between the ports I could Imagine rough idling at any temp.

When my EGR valve got stuck open, It idled poor and would stall when slowing down. I now only activate it for smog tests.

 

OK, so mine is the same. and I've tested that is switches ok and 30 connects to 87 so I'm happy this is ok.

Yes I did - I removed the whole thing, I marked how it was installed by scratching a line both on the spindle and the case. The engine didn't move before I reinstalled it. Could I still have a messed up timing?


er... no I don't think I did

yeah I'm getting 12 and 55. nothing else.

 

modem down typin from phone. if the disributor rotor turned when you had it iut then no good. since gears are curved exact reinstallation not always easy. you might have missed a tooth or two. i dont know if on your year you can adjust timing by turning distributor, but no spark is no spark, and that is issue number one now.

 

ok, I've tested the input to the coil at it's reading 4 to 5 V on crank. It flicks to 10 when I stop cranking.

[edit]

SO I tested the coil input and noticed one of the pins of the plug was pushed in some way. Didn't seem right so I pulled it up with some pointed nose pliers - BINGO. She's starting again

Now I've got rough idle and she stalls when foot off gas.

This could be timing related?

btw. How do I disable the EGR in case that is causing a problem?

 

Fixed!

It was timing. I stupidly didn't match mark the distributor housing against the intake only the spindle against the housing - double

So after a bit of turning I've got it idling as well as before - should I be more scientific - i.e. get a strobe on it?

Thanks to all who pointed me to the timing (LY especially).

Yippee holiday is back on !

 

American name for it is "Dog House"

 

Us Brits are far less inventive - we seriously would call it something like the engine cover. To me it looks a bit like an oversized helmet when off the van. Engine helmet? Sorry I'm still giddy with fixing the van!