How to replace front springs on a B-van?
#1
08-19-2010, 06:04 AM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denmark
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#2
08-19-2010, 11:37 AM
I had access to spring compressors but did not use them.
With the front end on jackstands, and shock removed and strut rod mounting bolts removed, I placed a hydraulic floor jack under the control arm, and raised it so it was just touching the arm.
I then removed completely the castle nut on the top BJ, then re installed it but not all the way. I used a pitman arm puller to seperate the BJ stud from the spindle, and when it pops, the lower arm's full weight and spring tension is transfered to the hydraulic floor jack. I then slowly lower the hydraulic jack. Within a couple inches there is no more pressure on the spring, and I pull out the spring. I installed it the same way.
Using spring compressors is safer, but on our vans, the top of the spring is recessed 5+ inches into the frame, and when lowering the control arm, the tension is completely removed before the jack bottoms out, so it is not as dangerous as on other vehicles.
I like using a piece of wood between hydraulic jack and lower control arm.
If you are not replacing the springs, you do not need to remove them for changing the ball joints, just put a jack under the control arm, separate the BJ studs from the spindles, and remove the BJ's, which is easier said than done. You need a special ball joint socket to unthread the Upper BJ, and a BJ press to remove the lower one.
I read many threads about how the incredible amount of torque that must be applied to the uppers to unthread them. In anticipation of a fight, I cleaned the area thoroughly, and sprayed more penetrating oil on the seam daily for a week while waiting for the parts and tools to arrive. When the special BJ socket arrived in the Mail, and I began the job, the BJ's unthreaded fairly easily, and were wet with penetrant when unscrewed enough to see the threads.
Alloro was not so lucky and used the press to push them out of the control arms and stripped the threads on the BJ, not the Control arm. He said they were then difficult to install, because the new BJ must cut a new set of threads. I was able to get 3 full turns on the BJ's by hand before requiring the use of the tool and special socket.
This is the BJ socket I was forced to buy:
http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=otc+8034
Here are some other part numbers of the same tool by different manufacturers.
part numbers:
S&K - SK84689 (688 is for the smaller chrylser cars)
Mac - SC30
Snap on - S9479A
Matco - SPS33
OTC - 8034
Alltrade - 648749 Specialty Ball Joint Socket Kit (Kit 32)
All the sockets have receptacles for a 3/4 inch breaker bar. I used a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter, but would have borrowed a 3/4 inch bar if required.
Some have made their own socket, some have used a pipe wrench. Do not think about starting this job without a method/ tool for attempting to unthread the BJ's. Even if you press them out as alloro did, he still needed the socket and a 600 LB/ft air wrench to reinstall the new ones.
Removal of the control arm bushings and reinstallation are another matter.
With the front end on jackstands, and shock removed and strut rod mounting bolts removed, I placed a hydraulic floor jack under the control arm, and raised it so it was just touching the arm.
I then removed completely the castle nut on the top BJ, then re installed it but not all the way. I used a pitman arm puller to seperate the BJ stud from the spindle, and when it pops, the lower arm's full weight and spring tension is transfered to the hydraulic floor jack. I then slowly lower the hydraulic jack. Within a couple inches there is no more pressure on the spring, and I pull out the spring. I installed it the same way.
Using spring compressors is safer, but on our vans, the top of the spring is recessed 5+ inches into the frame, and when lowering the control arm, the tension is completely removed before the jack bottoms out, so it is not as dangerous as on other vehicles.
I like using a piece of wood between hydraulic jack and lower control arm.
If you are not replacing the springs, you do not need to remove them for changing the ball joints, just put a jack under the control arm, separate the BJ studs from the spindles, and remove the BJ's, which is easier said than done. You need a special ball joint socket to unthread the Upper BJ, and a BJ press to remove the lower one.
I read many threads about how the incredible amount of torque that must be applied to the uppers to unthread them. In anticipation of a fight, I cleaned the area thoroughly, and sprayed more penetrating oil on the seam daily for a week while waiting for the parts and tools to arrive. When the special BJ socket arrived in the Mail, and I began the job, the BJ's unthreaded fairly easily, and were wet with penetrant when unscrewed enough to see the threads.
Alloro was not so lucky and used the press to push them out of the control arms and stripped the threads on the BJ, not the Control arm. He said they were then difficult to install, because the new BJ must cut a new set of threads. I was able to get 3 full turns on the BJ's by hand before requiring the use of the tool and special socket.
This is the BJ socket I was forced to buy:
http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=otc+8034
Here are some other part numbers of the same tool by different manufacturers.
part numbers:
S&K - SK84689 (688 is for the smaller chrylser cars)
Mac - SC30
Snap on - S9479A
Matco - SPS33
OTC - 8034
Alltrade - 648749 Specialty Ball Joint Socket Kit (Kit 32)
All the sockets have receptacles for a 3/4 inch breaker bar. I used a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter, but would have borrowed a 3/4 inch bar if required.
Some have made their own socket, some have used a pipe wrench. Do not think about starting this job without a method/ tool for attempting to unthread the BJ's. Even if you press them out as alloro did, he still needed the socket and a 600 LB/ft air wrench to reinstall the new ones.
Removal of the control arm bushings and reinstallation are another matter.
#3
08-22-2010, 08:40 AM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denmark
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Thank you for the thoroughly-written answer. I see that the upper BJ's are similar to the Mopar passenger cars in construction. I've once removed a upper BJ from a Dart by heating up the arm with a flame, and using a heavy set of plumber's pliers to screw it loose. And they were tight as...tight. But it worked!
Tonight my garage is calling...to dismantle the front springs etc. I'ts gotta work, as long as there's Johnny Cash on the stereo, coffee in the cup, and cupcakes in the tool drawer.
Tonight my garage is calling...to dismantle the front springs etc. I'ts gotta work, as long as there's Johnny Cash on the stereo, coffee in the cup, and cupcakes in the tool drawer.
#4
08-22-2010, 03:43 PM
Quick note on removal of the upper Ball Joints.
When using the special socket and a 3/4 breaker bar they can still be an absolute bear to remove. I did mine a few years back using an 8' length of 1 1/2" galvanized pipe on the end of the breaker bar to apply the necessary force to get the joints unthreaded. Sounds extreme but works like a charm -- just make sure your van is very secure on the jack stands before attempting to employ this method.
When you thread the new uppers back into the A arm you should apply never-seez liberally.
When using the special socket and a 3/4 breaker bar they can still be an absolute bear to remove. I did mine a few years back using an 8' length of 1 1/2" galvanized pipe on the end of the breaker bar to apply the necessary force to get the joints unthreaded. Sounds extreme but works like a charm -- just make sure your van is very secure on the jack stands before attempting to employ this method.
When you thread the new uppers back into the A arm you should apply never-seez liberally.
