Lugging at 45 MPH
#11
09-13-2010, 01:50 AM
My 89 is different than a 2002/3, but I can remove my doghouse in under a minute, after much practice. I love having the access, and being able to drive it with the doghouse off. I also enjoy being able to work on it while sitting down in a comfy seat instead of being bent over the hood, worried about scratching paint ect.
A coil is pretty cheap. A yellow spark is either a sign of a weak coil, or one wired backward, or a weak ground. I have also had Spark Plug wires which appeared to be in perfect condition send thousands of volts through me, and make a pretty light show at night. The under doghouse heat breaks them down faster than in a regular vehicle, and a weak engine ground makes it easier for the spark to choose a different path than through the spark plug.
Dodge Vans are notorious for ground issues, which cause all sorts of widely varied issues. Anytime something electrical is suspected I think the battery cables should be removed, inspected for corrosion under the insulation, and replaced if any is found. The battery to engine ground, the battery to firewall ground should be removed filed, wire brushed and reinstalled. There have been reports of missing engine to frame grounds.
Adding an engine to frame ground fixed an exasperating issue on another Van in a different forum. You must eliminate the grounds as possible current culprits and likely future ones. Check and post any stored computer codes as well.
Hopefully your dealer can resolve the issues, but if they are stumped and you are under the impression they have given up, get it back from them, seek compensation, and we'll do the best we can to get you on the road again.
A coil is pretty cheap. A yellow spark is either a sign of a weak coil, or one wired backward, or a weak ground. I have also had Spark Plug wires which appeared to be in perfect condition send thousands of volts through me, and make a pretty light show at night. The under doghouse heat breaks them down faster than in a regular vehicle, and a weak engine ground makes it easier for the spark to choose a different path than through the spark plug.
Dodge Vans are notorious for ground issues, which cause all sorts of widely varied issues. Anytime something electrical is suspected I think the battery cables should be removed, inspected for corrosion under the insulation, and replaced if any is found. The battery to engine ground, the battery to firewall ground should be removed filed, wire brushed and reinstalled. There have been reports of missing engine to frame grounds.
Adding an engine to frame ground fixed an exasperating issue on another Van in a different forum. You must eliminate the grounds as possible current culprits and likely future ones. Check and post any stored computer codes as well.
Hopefully your dealer can resolve the issues, but if they are stumped and you are under the impression they have given up, get it back from them, seek compensation, and we'll do the best we can to get you on the road again.
#12
09-13-2010, 10:59 AM
#13
09-13-2010, 11:42 PM
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Landyacht...thanks for the vote of confidence. i have confidence that you all could get me back on the road readng through the posts so far.
Alloro thanks for the information. LOL IAC=Idle Air control...next time ill think before i ask
Todays update is waiting on the catalytic convertor
.
Should have the van back by Thursday or Friday and should be good as new....Fingers Crossed.
On a positive note the dealer i purchased the vehicle from put my wife in a 2010 honda accord (go figure from a honda dealer) so it seems that they are commited to get me back on the road which is a great sign. Only now she wants a smaller car....
Hopefully the end of the week will bring great news and a solution which i will post for sure.
Alloro thanks for the information. LOL IAC=Idle Air control...next time ill think before i ask
Todays update is waiting on the catalytic convertor
.Should have the van back by Thursday or Friday and should be good as new....Fingers Crossed.
On a positive note the dealer i purchased the vehicle from put my wife in a 2010 honda accord (go figure from a honda dealer) so it seems that they are commited to get me back on the road which is a great sign. Only now she wants a smaller car....
Hopefully the end of the week will bring great news and a solution which i will post for sure.
#14
09-18-2010, 01:18 AM
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Well Still waiting for results from the dealer.
The dodge dealer installed a new Catalytic convertor and the word i recieved via the honda dealer, that i purchased the vehicle from, was that it didnt solve the issue. They are waiting on an undisclosed part that will arrive sometime on Saturday and this is expected to do it.
Still waiting but wanted to post that the Catalytic Convertor did not resolve the lugging/loss of power that i was getting at 45MPH.
Wife is still driving the honda accord and now is completely attached to the vehicle...lol....what do you do.
I will post as soon as i get the final answer.
The dodge dealer installed a new Catalytic convertor and the word i recieved via the honda dealer, that i purchased the vehicle from, was that it didnt solve the issue. They are waiting on an undisclosed part that will arrive sometime on Saturday and this is expected to do it.
Still waiting but wanted to post that the Catalytic Convertor did not resolve the lugging/loss of power that i was getting at 45MPH.
Wife is still driving the honda accord and now is completely attached to the vehicle...lol....what do you do.
I will post as soon as i get the final answer.
#15
09-25-2010, 07:08 PM
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And the results are in....It's Fixed finally (2 weeks to get it back).
Here is what the dealer did to get me back on the road...
New Catalytic Convertor
Passenger side Cylinder Head
Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold
All the assorted gaskets, screws and studs.
The diagnosis was cracked exhaust/intake valve seat and warped manifold. The catalytic convertor was said to be clogged but that is still doubtful to me.
I drove the vehicle and it drives/shifts great. They also resolved the Heater Vent issues and all of the vents work now, not just the floor/defroster.
Well first i wanted to thank all who replied for the help and advice it was more than appreciated. Hopefully the solution helps someone else although it would be a huge repair.
Secondly...considering my original problem of lugging at 45, does this sound like a reasonable repair to have resolved the issue? I guess it does agree with alloro's response regarding a possible misfire. I still have to change the ignition coil and the transmission fluid but at least it is running.
Here is what the dealer did to get me back on the road...
New Catalytic Convertor
Passenger side Cylinder Head
Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold
All the assorted gaskets, screws and studs.
The diagnosis was cracked exhaust/intake valve seat and warped manifold. The catalytic convertor was said to be clogged but that is still doubtful to me.
I drove the vehicle and it drives/shifts great. They also resolved the Heater Vent issues and all of the vents work now, not just the floor/defroster.
Well first i wanted to thank all who replied for the help and advice it was more than appreciated. Hopefully the solution helps someone else although it would be a huge repair.
Secondly...considering my original problem of lugging at 45, does this sound like a reasonable repair to have resolved the issue? I guess it does agree with alloro's response regarding a possible misfire. I still have to change the ignition coil and the transmission fluid but at least it is running.
#16
09-25-2010, 07:19 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
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