The PCV valve and breather element are on order at the parts store, should be getting them soon. I realized that oil pressure goes down when I stop at a traffic light, then goes back up when I get going, so I think the valve might be sticking open.

I found out they have Seafoam, too, which is pretty rare here, so I picked up 2 bottles, figuring it couldn't hurt. I put the old plugs back in, and saw the new ones (about 20 miles on them) are whitish grey. All 6 are identical. Apart from 6 clogged injectors and/or intake leaks, is there something else I should check?
Engine temp is hasn't come up any more than usual. In my Haynes manual they state it could be sticking valves. What does that mean exactly? Is there a way to verify/fix that without taking the valve covers off?

Sorry for the long posts and huge load of questions, I really want to understand how this thing works. Thanks again for the help everyone, I really appreciate it!

 

PCV valve and crankcase breather filter are installed. The engine runs great. The tapping sound was still there, but the idle was better and the engine ran smoother. I noticed that the breather element was a little loose and figured the whistling sound might be coming from there. I put grease around it to see if it would help. The whistling sound is almost completely gone (but coming back as the grease moves around, I'll have to figure out a permanent solution), and the tapping sound, too!

Thanks to all who helped.

 

If a new cc breather and pcv valve made that much of a difference. It is likely that you also have a big sludge issue. If you pull off the valve cover you might find sludge interfering with the rockers, perhaps not allowing the valves to close fully

I recommend changing your oil often, and stock up on Purolator 30001 filters, and change them more often than the oil. If you put any of that seafoam in the crankcase you might loosen up so much gunk you clog the oil pick up and starve the engine of oil. Gradual is better. Products like marvel mystery oil and auto RX are supposed to be more gradual than a sea foam treatment.

Synthetic oil also has more detergents because it needs less viscosity modifers. Using a thinner oil might help keep any sludge from blocking any passages.

You might be able to find a new breather gasket in the HELP section of auto parts stores.

 

That's good to know!

I'll save this for later then. It's been about 4000km (2500 miles) since my last oil change, I'll try to do one this week.

As for the Seafoam treatment, I assume it is still safe to do it in the intake and fuel tank?

 

The only issue with Seafoam in the intake is it might be able to knock so much carbon loose that it might plug the catcon. I'd run one or two through the fuel tank before introducing it to the intake.

Purolator 30001 are an oversize filter, with about twice the filter media and oil capacity. Purolator Pureone 30001 are a buck or 2 more but filter better. The Pure One brought back a little lifter tapping. I figured the extra dense filter media restricted flow, and I now just use the regular purolator. I am assuming that Magnum engines take the same filters as the LA engines since the blocks are the same.

When I first changed from the factory specified oil filter to the 30001, the lifter tapping at startup was reduced in duration by half. When I tried Mobil 1 synthetic, lifter tapping disappeared entirely, and now I use nothing but synthetic.


I also place some strong magnets around the filter case. It is debatable whether these do any good, but it cannot do any harm, and I like seeing the ferrous particles stuck to the can when I open up the filter at changes.



I am also a believer that Fram has earned it's nick name as OCOD, or the Orange Can Of Death, with it's cardboard endcaps which seperate from the filter media with colder oil temps. The one Fram I opened was seperated, after living it's life in Florida with 10w-30 in the sump.

 

After doing some research, MMO isn't available here in Canada. Auto-RX can be ordered, but at $35 a bottle, it's getting quite expensive.

I've done some research and found Rislone engine treatment. Has anyone tried it? How does it compare to MMO?
http://www.rislone.ca/34100.htm

On the Tech sheet, they state "For severely dirty engines, use two quarts of Rislone Engine Treatment and change the oil after 150 km of driving." If I go with Rislone should I do that, or just do the regular 4-1 mix with engine oil?

 

I've never used Risilone, or any product specifically designed to clean the engine of sludge.

I would just save the money on risilone and use a good synthetic oil like mobil 1 or pennzoil platinum, or even an oil for Diesels.

Any aggressive sludge cleaning product can foul the oil pick up screen and starve the engine of oil. I'd only use one If I were dropping the oil pan anyway, and were monitoring Oil PSI closely.

Do some reading over here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm