I was driving on HWY for 30 miles then it acted as if it ran out of gas or was flooding. Got weak, couldn't keep RPM's, and I believed it died due as guage said it lost all oil PSI and I couldn't get any reaction from gas pedal.

Background:
- 350K Miles on 318ci 5.2L V8 B150 1/2 ton RamVan
- Really old cat (may be full?) and smog/air pump doesn't have a belt attached (effect?)
- A/C Electrical wires that connect on front passenger side by <heater box?>. 2 different plugs not connected.

Testing Done/Thoughts:
*Oil leaked out and engine seized - Oil was full when checked after fail
*Tranny Seized - It would still start while out of gear (I think)
*Belt driven itemseized (water pump, alt, A/C, P/S) - No broken, squeeking, or smoking belts. Haven't watched from front while cranking.

*****When cranking, minimal amount of gas is visible while looking in TB.*****
*****When key released (on position) it spews gas like a garden hose while engine is dead (not turning, no spark)

*Wire from coil didn't "appear" to spark from different grounding locations

* No smog/Air pump belt caused cat to fill/clogg, engine choked to death, O2 sensor is trippin and causing TB to spew gas????

TPS throttle Position Sensor? Throttle cable not stuck and "TB valves?" are closed/barely open while gas is spewing, not wide open as if hitting the gas. (What's that mean?)

Sorry for so much info, but it seems relevant and I need to get my vehicle off the HWY. 10pm and I have $40 to my name.

 

- A friend mentioned a WOT (wide open throttle)
- Someone else mentioned a coil resistor by the firewall
- And how about a crankshaft position sensor (bad position for spark and right place to trigger gas injection)

 

This is very Abby normal, and I will guess the problem revolves around this symptom.

First, check the engine codes Via the Key Dance. Key on off on off on. Count check engine light flashes, and pauses. 3 flashes, pause, 5 flashes is code 35. code 55 means end of codes. 12 is normal too. Do a search if this is too vague.

Second, since it is an electrical issue, remove, clean and retighten the grounds. Battery to engine, battery to firewall, and frame to engine. Make sure the alternator ground is good too. Just looking and assuming they are fine is not helping to eliminate them, and Dodge's are notorious for bad grounds causing bizarre issues.


The lack of an airpump belt would only reduce catcon life.

The Crank sensor on a TBI is inside the Distributor, and called a hall effect sensor or distributor pick up.

There is no ballast resistor.

No spark but with plenty of fuel pressure could be a bad coil.

Too much fuel pressure could be a faulty F pressure regulator, or clogged return line.

Check for codes, and then clean the grounds, and post any codes and we will have a better chance of helping you.

 

I just got up and going back to do some of what you said. I am 45min from home with very basic tools and it may get towed off HWY soon!

I did remove and re-apply dist cap recently? Will re-apply in-case it is CPS.

Coil tested OK at AutoZone (hope they did it right)

What can I do to check/eliminate the fuel pressure regulator and where is it?

Willpost codes if any. _____THANK YOU!!_____

 

Key dance appears to give multi codes

35
5 + 10? Is that 50?

In it now and has been tagged for towing - please help

 

The fuel pressure regulator is located on the throttle body. It is tested by testing fuel pressure with and without the vacuum line attached. Not really helpful to you now.

It looks like this:


You are not reading the flashes/ pauses correctly.

Code 55 will flash last and means end of codes
Code 12 means the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 key starts.

The engine computer ground is attached at the base of the coil. make sure that is good, and look at all the other grounds.

If you cannot get any codes besides 55, try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes to reset the computer.

 

I am posting from cell phn. Hard to see what I put prev. 1st code was 35 + 510?

Did it again ang got 35 + 55, so 35 is the key.

I left van and will go back in an hour (my ride to it had 2 go). My insur co doesn't offer a tow, odot charges, and I have $40. It got tagged for tow already.

Code 35.........

 

I did sand 2 connections to coil and a groung cable between coil mount and block. Still no start.

It doesn't spew gas like a hose anymore, but no spark continues.

The ground wire to coil had a sharp bend right at connection. Very thin and can't trace wherfe it goes to bypass with another wire.

 

Code 35 is a junk code and has nothing to do with your problem. It has to do with when there's an electric radiator fan instead of a mechanical one.

Since the coil test okay, did you check for power at the coil with the key on? With the plug connected you should have the same voltage at the coil as you do at the battery.

 

Keep an eye on your battery level since the phone is your only connection to us.

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