I need to get a tester of some kind. Shorting them probable isnt a good idea right? You know, as you would with a spark plug wire to block.

A friend just used a flatbed to get it the 45min back home (hell yeah!).

 

No, but thts funny it has my wifes phone number. Must be previous owner.

 

Right, that's a bad idea. You will blow the fusible link and lose all power if you do that.

 

Fusable link. If that prevents pwr to coil, where is it and how to check if you deem worth while?

Thanks for your help.

 

Glad your buddy has a flat bed.
The fusible links are stuffed behind the brake booster. They are lengths of wire with a thicker softer insulation. The one that powers the coil is the same one which powers the fuel pump and injectors, so I don't think that is your issue, but there are a couple more back there, so pull em out and inspect anyway.
http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html

 

This thread has info on how to test the distributor pick up/ hall effect densor/ crank sensor.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...or-fuel-2.html

Put your battery on a charger.

 

Just a quick point of view, I had the exact same symptoms with my 1996 5.2l b2500. After digging and troubleshooting, ended up being a clogged cat. The cat had gotten so clogged up that pieces had started to break loose, plugging the exhaust.

Replacing the catalytic converter fixed my issue. YMMV.


-Cody

 

I am back from an overnight hike and now have time to test more.

Did the cat issue actually create a no-spark issue?

If so, that could very well be since I had no smog pump belt for a month. I read different things on forums. A lot of post about vehicles stalling due to a clogged cat and the way mine died was as-if choking or flooding.

On the roadside I did beat the hell out of the cat with a hammer just in-case and it did sound full of metal shards and so did the muffler. They look like the originals?

I played with a volt meter and the coil and got some results that I don't think should be, but not sure. these are when cranking.

- Didn't read any voltage from coil+ to coil- (~16ga wires?)
- Does read 11v from coil+ to block and coil- to block

This has me thinking of a bad ground on coil (is this the one that goes to computer or can I bypass to block?)

Coil out to dist connection to block still read 11v (working fine?), but not strong enough for me to see a spark when coil out wire put next to block?

-

 

I just printed this and will be doing some testing today with a buddy. Thanks for the screenshot and time.

 

No longer spews gas as long as ground at bottom of coil mount to ?? is bolted down, just a no spark issue now.

voltmeter says 12v getting to coil
voltmeter says ground from coil is good
voltmeter says coil-out to disti is giving 12v
replaced coil
replaced hall effect sensor (A.K.A. coil pick-up)

no apparent coil resistor installed (white ceramic 2/4 prong block by battery)

• There was a makeshift 4 connection device in it's place? (pic below)
• Have looked, but have not located one on block yet

No obvious fusable links broken, but there is a loose end of a black wire? Could be a blown one, but I was unable to find the other end.

I was unable to verify if a CPS (crankshaft position sensor) was present. Not visable from the doghouse. There are 2 connections under drivers seat area, both with 3 wires and one near the end of the transmission with 2 wires. The one in the back swivels. Speed sensor I think it was called (bought the book for it finally)

Please provide the next step in finding out what is preventing spark.