now that i managed to fix my overheating problem i have time to deal with something minor but has been driving me nuts.

first off the a/c blower motor, in low and second position the speed changes and noise is minimal to the third position some times it increases sometimes not. but i get a BRRRRRRR noise. turn to max and the thing really blows but the BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR is loud to the point of must turn off. i pulled the motor to see if something like leaves or dead animal or what not was caught up but it was clean and spins freely. second part of the problem is the a/c blows fine out of the 6 dash vents. but if i accelerate hard from stop (heavy with the foot) i can feel the air stop on the dash level and switch to the floor vents. if i lift off the throttle for a second it comes back up to the dash. during most normal acceleration or revving at a light or in park it stays blowing out the dash. it has to be heavy acceleration from a stop with a loaded trailer or up hill or just too much pedal all at once. ( it also seems like the engine takes a minute before i get full power when hard accelerating as well) like a spring winding up slowly and then when it gets so tight it takes off.

 

Your blower motor is worn and you have a vacuum leak or a leaking vacuum check valve.

 

so its not a relay or resistor? the parts counter guy said resistor since the switch acted faulty,. but neither part was in stock and at 20 dollars each i wanted to make sure.

how do i check a vacuum leak? and what pray tell is a vacuum check valve?

 

If the speed resistor were bad then the blower usually only works on high. When the speed switch goes bad you usually lose one of the speeds or the blower just won't work at all. None of these symptoms fit your description. As to the parts counter guy; there's a reason he's selling parts and not installing them.

For the vacuum leak, the only real way to test it is if you posses a vacuum pump or a smoke machine. In the absents of either one, you're stuck visually inspecting the vacuum lines for breaks, splits, or cracks.

A check valve is a one way valve. It allows vacuum to be built up in the vacuum reservoir while preventing the vacuum level from dropping when engine vacuum drops, such as during heavy acceleration or hill climbing. On the magnum engines, the check valve is on the passenger side of the intake. There's a vacuum line there, an elbow, and the check valve, all within a few inches of the intake. From there the vacuum line runs to the reservoir behind the passenger headlight. From there, through the firewall and to the HVAC controls.

 

well my mail order blower motor finally showed up. and i finally had the chance to dodge rain drops and get it installed - BBBBBBBBRRRRRRRRRRRR. cant decide if it is actually louder now or not. but suffice it to say i cannot hear the engine or the radio when the fan is on high.

also on a side note it appears my gas gauge is acting up. needle just jumps up and down. mostly when the van is moving braking turning or hitting bumps but even at a stop it will swing around. any way to fix this without spending $182 on a new pump (pump works just fine)

 

Does the temp gauge rise and fall with the gas gauge?

Sounds like your blower motors are rubbing on the housing. If you remove it again, try cleaning the fan blades, and when it is removed use a leaf blower into one of the vents to see if there is leafy blockage in the loop. A fan fighting resistance or not having enough air to suck will be louder.

 

temp gauge does not rise and fall with fuel. but my gauge did read 1/4 tank today and i just put 31.16 gallons in the tank. thought these only held 32 gallons? worse off is i mangaged 402 miles on those 31 gallons. the fan was cleaned when i did the install, i get good air flow from each of the vents. i can really feel the air when it is on high but i cant hear myself think. the noise is not a rub or squeal.