Van masters conversion
#1
Van masters conversion
I just purchased a 1990 Ram Van. The conversion was done by Van Masters and I have no idea what the switches are for. I am not getting power to the TV or VCR as well as the rear outlets. I am hoping one of the switches will provide this power. Does anyone know of an instruction manual or diagram that might be able to help?
#2
What you need to find is the fuse box that was added by the conversion company. That fuse box and not the factory one will supply the power to the switches you mentioned.
#4
#6
Does any of these look like your switch box?
http://cpcparts.com/products/results...-%20MARK%20III
#7
I have a 1992 B250 Aero Conversion. My overhead switches control overhead lights behind the front seats, mood lighting along trim and power to the tv/vcr. My extra fuse block is under the dash right above the brake pedal. There is one in line fuse for the rear a/c switch located behind the wood trim overhead. It seems the conversion companies put things wherever works at the time and they don't supply any kind of wiring diagram. Do like I did and start following wires to see where they go.
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#9
My 1999 Sun Hawk high top conversion has a 30amp inline behind a hinged wood door beside the left center passenger.
I dont know that the 30 was original. but that is taped off a 15amp circuit form the original harness, and switched with 7.5amp rated switch - that was frozen when I got the van.
As I got it:
30 amp fused circuit protected by the 15amp fuse and controlled by a 7.5amp switch.
now:
15 amp fused circuit protected by the 15amp fuse and controlled by a 50amp switch.
Nearly every Sun Hawk crimped connection slips apart, 14ga wires butt spliced to 22 or 20ga for the lights. Plenty of strands poking out, or even plain sloppy bare areas not protected at all. I've been recrimping or replacing ends that were wrong to begin with.
(even the original Twin-Air blower for the rear AC had a dead short since the motor was originally assembled - I found a 15amp fuse tucked in and managed to start the LOUD blower only to pop the fuse in 2 seconds.)
Anyone got a line on a good low cost motor replacement??
I will be adding relays and better wiring as I improve my van.
I dont know that the 30 was original. but that is taped off a 15amp circuit form the original harness, and switched with 7.5amp rated switch - that was frozen when I got the van.
As I got it:
30 amp fused circuit protected by the 15amp fuse and controlled by a 7.5amp switch.
now:
15 amp fused circuit protected by the 15amp fuse and controlled by a 50amp switch.
Nearly every Sun Hawk crimped connection slips apart, 14ga wires butt spliced to 22 or 20ga for the lights. Plenty of strands poking out, or even plain sloppy bare areas not protected at all. I've been recrimping or replacing ends that were wrong to begin with.
(even the original Twin-Air blower for the rear AC had a dead short since the motor was originally assembled - I found a 15amp fuse tucked in and managed to start the LOUD blower only to pop the fuse in 2 seconds.)
Anyone got a line on a good low cost motor replacement??
I will be adding relays and better wiring as I improve my van.