Rear AC heat exchanger makes constant sound
#1
08-21-2011, 10:04 AM
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Rear AC heat exchanger makes constant sound
Greetings,
I just accquired a cream puff 1995 RAM B250 High Top Conversion owned by a 90 year old lady. Love this van!
When I turn the accessory switch on, I can hear a motorized sound coming from the rear AC unit way back by the passenger side rear door on the floor. This happens even when the nAC controls are in the off position.
I plan to do a lot of off-grid camping starting next week and I need to be sure that this unit is not draining my electrical system every time I go to use a light or the stereo.
Is there a switch I'm missing? Should I pop as fuse someplace to be safe when I get to the campsite?
I just accquired a cream puff 1995 RAM B250 High Top Conversion owned by a 90 year old lady. Love this van!
When I turn the accessory switch on, I can hear a motorized sound coming from the rear AC unit way back by the passenger side rear door on the floor. This happens even when the nAC controls are in the off position.
I plan to do a lot of off-grid camping starting next week and I need to be sure that this unit is not draining my electrical system every time I go to use a light or the stereo.
Is there a switch I'm missing? Should I pop as fuse someplace to be safe when I get to the campsite?
Last edited by nncoco; 08-21-2011 at 10:07 AM.
#2
08-22-2011, 12:24 AM
The rear HVAC unit box was made by Denso. It has a CEI electric actuator driving the door valve and the water valve. Something that is sending input to the actuator to move is the real culprit. It could be back on the dash in the control unit with the buttons and slider bar.
My rear HVAC unit actually annoyed me. I wanted to have both floor and head vents running for AC and heat rather than heat only for floor and AC for head. So, I had unplugged the actuator back there and set the position to be a blend to both the floor and heat zones. The water-valve I left in heat for winter. In the late spring, I switch the water-valve off so the AC can run. Sure, it's a manual thing to do, but it's only twice a year.
The rear blower switch runs the motor regardless of the actuator.
If you can reach a hand back there and the two 5.5mm or 6mm with an adjustable swivel socket, one taken off, the door-valve will fall to down allowing all air flow to the head level. Reach a hand in there or tool and position it mid-way. Next, power the acutaor for a very brief time to move it to the mid-way. Slap the actuator back on. It's now set to mid-way air flow for both head and feet. The actuator should be marked with a yellow letter "C".
Hope some of this makes sense. Yes, the rear actuator can drain the battery since it's a stall on torque type that still allows 12VDC to keep sending power.
My rear HVAC unit actually annoyed me. I wanted to have both floor and head vents running for AC and heat rather than heat only for floor and AC for head. So, I had unplugged the actuator back there and set the position to be a blend to both the floor and heat zones. The water-valve I left in heat for winter. In the late spring, I switch the water-valve off so the AC can run. Sure, it's a manual thing to do, but it's only twice a year.
The rear blower switch runs the motor regardless of the actuator. If you can reach a hand back there and the two 5.5mm or 6mm with an adjustable swivel socket, one taken off, the door-valve will fall to down allowing all air flow to the head level. Reach a hand in there or tool and position it mid-way. Next, power the acutaor for a very brief time to move it to the mid-way. Slap the actuator back on. It's now set to mid-way air flow for both head and feet.
The actuator should be marked with a yellow letter "C". Hope some of this makes sense. Yes, the rear actuator can drain the battery since it's a stall on torque type that still allows 12VDC to keep sending power.
#4
08-24-2011, 12:20 AM
Cool !