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94 B350 blew big orange fusible link/keeps blowing it

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  #11  
Old 12-12-2011, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wantboost
If I unplug both and the link still blows while cranking what does that mean?
It means the problem is elsewhere!

Originally Posted by wantboost
Where exactly is the fuel pump relay physically located?
Yours is likely on the firewall next to the ADS relay. If it's not there then check in the under hood power box, if you have one. Also, stop focusing on the starter, it's not the problem. The circuit that keeps blowing does not go down to the starter.

Originally Posted by wantboost
The problem is the weather blows down here lately, its probably 35 degrees with a massive wind, you can understand why I lack motivation to go outside and start fiddling with a refrigerator
Oh I hear that! I have to go out and change a faulty injector in my van and I've been putting it off hoping for one more 60+ degree day. I changed all of my injectors about 3 years ago so this is really pissing me off.
 
  #12  
Old 12-12-2011, 05:45 PM
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ok, so ignore the starter, thats just a symptom of whatever is wrong... got it.

the only thing to the right of the asd relay is the blank spot the high fuel pressure CNG relay (from what my schematic shows) Im not sure if all vans were wired for cng but my van has the blank relay spots for it.

I don't have an underhood power box (as far as I can tell, it just goes battery -> wiring harness/fusible links -> ecu -> firewall pass thru connectors) I'll have to look in my manual to locate it
 
  #13  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:42 PM
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Alright. Going to attempt to do the FSM diagnostics on the egr and evaluation purge solenoid today. Hopefully.
sitting at the Dodge dealer waiting for fusible link.... again. I'm almost tempted to remove the links and replace them with a fuse box.
 
  #14  
Old 12-14-2011, 08:05 PM
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I would say your insturment panel is shorting out. Here is what you need to do, disconnect all the things that are not working. I pulled my dash apart last weekend it is very easy to do. you can pull out the instrument panel and disconnect the volt/oil wires they are seperate to the speedo, temp guage, fuel guage. pull your radio out, and disconnect your wiper motor. it is one of these things. You should then be able to put in a fuse and start the engine.
 
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:31 PM
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I know and have done all of that already...

I unplugged the evap and egr solenoids, replaced the 20g link with a 16g link... motor turns over but wont fire... now what?!?!?
 
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:47 PM
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OK I take that back, after a few attempts of cranking and replacing the asd and fuel pump relays its nuking links again, 2 in the last 5 minutes...

Ideas before I have a dodge barbecue?
 
  #17  
Old 12-19-2011, 02:16 PM
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So just to make sure you have everything off! no accessories like AC or fans radio running. Does the fuse blow, when you start cranking, after a certain time, or once the engine tries to kick in.

Your spark plugs are they all in good order pull them out and check. Is the Alternator shorting, it could be shorting out. Distributor cap.
 
  #18  
Old 12-19-2011, 03:38 PM
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did you read my last thread? vehicle was running fine before it popped the link. Nothing is plugged up, the whole dash is apart and everything is off.

it cranked and cranked and cranked, never fired... I dont think the pump is getting voltage, I'll have to check.

I replaced the asd and fuel pump relays and thats when it started popping the link again.
 
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:50 PM
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Well having two threads on the same thing makes it difficult to read. This however does not seem to be a random thing doing a search on this subject the thing that stands out the most is O2 sensors, Alternator, wiring around manifold intake, or the intake itself. Your instrument panel for Oil will stay at its last level until re-energised and the voltage will not show anything unless re-energised (see what happens if you put 12 volts onto the panel directly. The first 2 you should be able to disconnect and still start the engine you could even take off the serpentine belt. It has to be something engine based as when you turn the key to start it by-passes your accessories to allow enough power for the engine to start, then once started your accessories come back on (which you say are all working good except for the radio and wipers which are on this circuit). May also be a crankshaft sensor.
 

Last edited by gazza101; 12-20-2011 at 08:02 PM. Reason: added last point.
  #20  
Old 12-21-2011, 01:21 AM
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when I hooked the link back up, everything 0'd out and the voltage came up to 12 volts, there are no shorts behind the panel.
Something is pulling too much current causing the link to blow, nothing is plugged in or on, other than the cluster temporarily once I spliced the link, then I unplugged it before I cranked it.

Im not 100% sure where to start, as theres not a lot on that circuit and everything was unplugged... I'm going to go over the diagram again and replace this damn link with a real fuse that way im not having to cut and solder every single time.
 


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