This is the reason I am strongly considering the mod -- because the only things I usually carry in the van are some light hand tools. The two ladders I carry above the roof probably create more drag resulting in reduced MPG than any other factor, but I need to have them with me.

Any improvement in MPG will pay a huge dividend for me making the project worthwhile.

 

I stopped at the local boneyard and checked out a B2500 5.2 with an OD transmission that already had the front grille removed -- I was able to confirm the presence of the trans cooler. So, I know I can source that used for around $20. The junked van had it's front end propped up on a hugh concrete slab but I felt unsafe crawling around underneath, so next (safe) opportunity I get I will have a look at the driveshaft, cooler lines and speedo connection.

I am beginning to feel good about making the decision to do the swap.

 

I replaced the front brakes. I installed and lubed new caliper bolts/pins and there is noticably less brake drag. However there still is some drag. I would call it a normal amount based on what I've seen on used vehicles. But I've started to wonder if old brake hoses contribute to this common condition as they collapse internally. Decreasing rolling resistance is critical to getting any kind of decent gas milage.

I went ahead and ordered the new front brake hoses as mine are probably the originals. Hopefully my vacuum bleeder will make this messy and annoying job easier.

 

Steve... I picked up an '01 B2500 5.2L extended van with 152K on it around Christmas. I think I have a 4.10 rear end according to stamp on door. I want to use it to tow my 2000# boat+trailer and use it to camp. I have done some work on the inside to make it sleep worthy while on the road.

It was a daily driver for a painting company when I got it and was maintained... somewhat. I have put in a water pump, idler arm and serpentine belt so far. Brakes look good, but I will look at and/or replace the front brake hoses soon as they may be old/collapsing. I had that issue with my previous '94 B250 I drove for 265K miles before I wrecked it in '08.

I just read your post on increasing mileage... I rarely go above 68MPH because I want to get the best mileage I can. Recent 2100 mile trip gave me maybe 15.5MPG when driving without a small 1000# camper, but probably closer to 14.5 when pulling the camper. Would love to increase this to 17 or 18 on a long trip out west maybe next year where a 4K mile trip would save me a few $$$ getting 15-20% better mileage.

I think I can remove/reinstall rear axle lube as you suggest, and brake hoses and lube up the cliper/discs to have them not drag. Replace plugs, cap/rotor and wires, I can do. I can also grease front wheel bearings with recommended grease.

I did not get what you meant about the TB (thorottle body?). What can a small-time (me) mechanic do there?

I am looking at replacing 2 at least but maybe all 4 tires. Currently have LT tires on it, pumped to 65 and 50 #... but tire shopping sure hits the pocketbook hard especially for those LT tires... I have seen $130 Dunlops at Sams Club and also $240 LTX Michelins... almost twice the price but everyone says I won't wear out the Michelins in 100K miles! I had not thought about the BF Goodrich, but will consider them. I already had some front end work done and alignment. What do you think about tire brands now... a year or more later?

SInce you wrote your original article some time back, what are your latest thoughts on boosting mpg?

Thanks for the excellant articles that you have penned...

Roger

 

Wow, just got back to this thread.

Roger, sorry I missed your posting here. As for tires, the load-E is ideal for the 8-lug rims. 16x6.5 size. Mine are the BFGoodrich Commercial T/As. They are hold up well.

This past weekend, I added a Fram AirHog filter to the MPG improvements. My ScanGageII has shown a .5mpg improvement already during this recent fillup. Would like to see what this does on the HWY since the .5mpg was more mixed. The cost was a mere $4 from RockAuto.com vs. a K&N $$$ option.


At the present time, the rear brake lines are rotting out. Got a small leak already. Looking to run new lines soon. Also need to replace the shocks all around. They are the originals from 2001 with 132K miles.

 

I did finally purchase top of he line Goodyear Silent Armors on all four corners. I went up one size from stock 245 Vs 225. I have them pumped between 65# and 75#. They make me feel real secure in the worst rain. They corner well and are real quiet. I also added a K&N filter and replaced an old crappy dist cap and rotor with a good one. I also have a ScanGuageII. With a gentle foot and no head winds I have gotten as much as 16MPG on trips involving hiway travel in the 60-65 MPH range. Going down country roads at 45-55 MPH on flat roads I attained 20MPG on a 80 mile run according to the scanguage, but I was trying real hard to max the guage reading. I have yet to tackle plugs, as they seem to be doing well with no misfires and idles smoothly.

This beast sure hurts me though in a strong 20+ MPH head wind... really drops the MPG back down to 12-13 on the hiway.

I re-did all the brakes all the way around and have real good stopping power.

I am now at the 160K mile mark and she runs pretty good... knock on wood. I don't drive her much unless I am going 100 miles or more at a time. I will have a couple of 500 mile trips between now and Christmas, then a 3K mile trip in March.

Off the subject... but other than a junkyard, do you have a line on where I can upgrade my stock front seats without spending an arm and a leg? These don't lean back nor do they have an arm rest. What a pain...

thx again for your great posts

 

Air filter types, new, old, dirty, or clean, have no affect on MPG. The fuel/air mix is based on the flow of air into the engine, so with more or less air flow the fuel flow is adjusted accordingly.

 

Understood.

With more airflow, the engine isn't starving as much. The RPMs don't have to climb so high to make the 0-60 in the time I typically push, thus the 0.5mpg has shown on the scangage.

I have two locations on the drive to and from work to benchmark the improvements/mishaps. Both show an improvement with the AirHog filter and the little less need to hold the pedal for the speed posted.

The only noticeable issues are the air whistle that climbs with the throttle. Sort of like a diesel climbing the RPM curve too.

 

.....

 

There is a fuel system treatment that Chrysler (per the TSB on the lower plate for the plenum) does. See that the service for it is flat fee $100 at most Chrysler dealers. Helps to remove all the carbon build up. There is a direct line feed, then a tank treatment.

I don't have the part numbers for what they use, but this also would help with most 5.2 and 5.9 magnum motors that have not had this done. Would be nice if Chrysler would had made this TSB a recall seeing as it's a well known issue on any Chrysler with either of these motors.

But in short the tank treatment would help most keep higher mpg as it would keep the fuel system cleaner if done once every 6 months or so many miles driving. Will work on getting the Chrysler part numbers for both treatments as I think the tank one would be best to keep things up to par to keep the better MPG on our engines.