strange stalling problem
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Radiator Cap! get a Stant brand.
How about the water pump? or water circuit. firstly check it, make sure there is enough fluid, check that the thermostat is working by watching for water to circulate.
What it sounds like to me is that you are getting pressure building up once your engine starts to warm up. Then when it drops, it changes to quickly either causing rough idle or a stall. Which then gives you your flooded engine.
I would also get a new iginition coil on the van as well, both can be replaced easily yourself.
How about the water pump? or water circuit. firstly check it, make sure there is enough fluid, check that the thermostat is working by watching for water to circulate.
What it sounds like to me is that you are getting pressure building up once your engine starts to warm up. Then when it drops, it changes to quickly either causing rough idle or a stall. Which then gives you your flooded engine.
I would also get a new iginition coil on the van as well, both can be replaced easily yourself.
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Radiator Cap! get a Stant brand.
How about the water pump? or water circuit. firstly check it, make sure there is enough fluid, check that the thermostat is working by watching for water to circulate.
What it sounds like to me is that you are getting pressure building up once your engine starts to warm up. Then when it drops, it changes to quickly either causing rough idle or a stall. Which then gives you your flooded engine.
I would also get a new iginition coil on the van as well, both can be replaced easily yourself.
How about the water pump? or water circuit. firstly check it, make sure there is enough fluid, check that the thermostat is working by watching for water to circulate.
What it sounds like to me is that you are getting pressure building up once your engine starts to warm up. Then when it drops, it changes to quickly either causing rough idle or a stall. Which then gives you your flooded engine.
I would also get a new iginition coil on the van as well, both can be replaced easily yourself.
Captain
Joined: Nov 2006
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The ignition coil is a cheap part and it's quite easy to change - I wouldn't go through all the hassle to test, but that's just me. By the time you hack around with testing you could easily just replace the part and know you have a good, strong, new coil.
That talk of "pressure build up" sure sounds like a bunch of nonsense to me FWIW.
That talk of "pressure build up" sure sounds like a bunch of nonsense to me FWIW.
Last edited by Rusty93RamVan; Jan 24, 2012 at 05:55 PM.
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Radiator cap is like the cheapest thing you can change, costs like 6 bucks, I like cheap fixes usually the first thing I will go for, before anything else. I had the same problem about six months ago, I changed the transmission fluid and RAD cap, iginition coil. I had 164,000 when I did that.
The only other thing is maybe the torque convertor is some how causing problems?
Other things to try
What you could do is another oil change btw what is your oil and filter?
add some cleaning additives?
The only other thing is maybe the torque convertor is some how causing problems?
Other things to try
What you could do is another oil change btw what is your oil and filter?
add some cleaning additives?
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Thanks all, I've ordered a new coil. On uk so not much choice on cheap parts over here as the suplliers add
import costs etc. Cheapest for me is rock auto but with import tax and shipping a 90 dollar radiator cost me 130 pounds. !
import costs etc. Cheapest for me is rock auto but with import tax and shipping a 90 dollar radiator cost me 130 pounds. !
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ok, update:
ive got the new coil but the connector is slightly different shape.. if i splice the old connector on would this be ok? aside form that it looks exactly the same.. the part number of the new one is ML12837 (replaces CHRYSLER 56028172)
otherwise id have to pay double for one from the states.
ive got the new coil but the connector is slightly different shape.. if i splice the old connector on would this be ok? aside form that it looks exactly the same.. the part number of the new one is ML12837 (replaces CHRYSLER 56028172)
otherwise id have to pay double for one from the states.
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UPDATE
i made a jumper wire for the new coil to try it out. it started up fine .. as usual then afetr chenging between park and nuetral a few times it cut out again as usual. gonna replace/inspect all vaccum hoses at the weekend, maybe i could pull the injectors and clean them too?
i made a jumper wire for the new coil to try it out. it started up fine .. as usual then afetr chenging between park and nuetral a few times it cut out again as usual. gonna replace/inspect all vaccum hoses at the weekend, maybe i could pull the injectors and clean them too?
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go for a drive and also make a few starts of your engine, you need to put some miles on so hopefully the computer will correct the problem it is causing. You may also want to run the revs up high. Also I said the "cap" of the Radiator not the Radiator itself. but I actually see you have a new radiator.
If it was the IAC you would have an unsteady revs in P or N. I am still leaning towards the transmission, having trouble slipping when at 0 MPH.
How do you store your vehicle and what kind of outside temps do you have
Below I have asked a few more questions in your post.
If it was the IAC you would have an unsteady revs in P or N. I am still leaning towards the transmission, having trouble slipping when at 0 MPH.
How do you store your vehicle and what kind of outside temps do you have
Below I have asked a few more questions in your post.
Hi, i have a 93 5.2 ram van wagon.
128,000 miles, recent oil change, new IAC, new water temp sensor, new asd relays new radiator.
The van has been great, drove a few hunderd miles at christmas, then back and forth to work all fine, always starts on the button.
As they do.
But last week on the way home as i came to a stop at lights the van just died as if it ran out of fuel.
I have had this aswell
I managed to get it home after pumping the gas pedal and keeping the revs up.
So you like have to have 1000 rpm and then through it into Drive
so the symptoms are now this: starts right up from dead cold, as soon as i put it in drive or reverse it struggles to adjust itself and either idles bad and/or dies. then it is really hard to start back up, Flooded engine
- i have to keep the throttle wide open as if clearing a flooded engine then if i leave it in park it eventually settles but stalls again if i switch to drive again as before.
If i do get it up to 30mph it seems fine until i slow down then it starts struggling and im back to square one.
would it do this if you shifted to neutral when you decelerate
With the doghouse and air cleaner all off i can hear the IAC adjusting.. its a deafening hiss. it doesen't seem particularly fast, should it be a quick moving adjustment? could i pre-adjust it before installing?
Ive since replaced the oxygen sensor and TPS but no change.
Its as if the IAC isn't adjusting properly/fast enough? cant really smell excess fuel. Ive put a new TPS and oxygen sensor, cleaned out the TB but no change. any ideas? - sorry for the long explanation but thought it best to be clear.. ive read the other posts abut IAc and stalling but this seems to be something else..? thanks guys.
Also since ive had the van when i first turn the ignition on i hear a little fuzzy hiss, a motor whirr and what seems to be an electrical BZZKK is this normal?
128,000 miles, recent oil change, new IAC, new water temp sensor, new asd relays new radiator.
The van has been great, drove a few hunderd miles at christmas, then back and forth to work all fine, always starts on the button.
As they do.
But last week on the way home as i came to a stop at lights the van just died as if it ran out of fuel.
I have had this aswell
I managed to get it home after pumping the gas pedal and keeping the revs up.
So you like have to have 1000 rpm and then through it into Drive
so the symptoms are now this: starts right up from dead cold, as soon as i put it in drive or reverse it struggles to adjust itself and either idles bad and/or dies. then it is really hard to start back up, Flooded engine
- i have to keep the throttle wide open as if clearing a flooded engine then if i leave it in park it eventually settles but stalls again if i switch to drive again as before.
If i do get it up to 30mph it seems fine until i slow down then it starts struggling and im back to square one.
would it do this if you shifted to neutral when you decelerate
With the doghouse and air cleaner all off i can hear the IAC adjusting.. its a deafening hiss. it doesen't seem particularly fast, should it be a quick moving adjustment? could i pre-adjust it before installing?
Ive since replaced the oxygen sensor and TPS but no change.
Its as if the IAC isn't adjusting properly/fast enough? cant really smell excess fuel. Ive put a new TPS and oxygen sensor, cleaned out the TB but no change. any ideas? - sorry for the long explanation but thought it best to be clear.. ive read the other posts abut IAc and stalling but this seems to be something else..? thanks guys.
Also since ive had the van when i first turn the ignition on i hear a little fuzzy hiss, a motor whirr and what seems to be an electrical BZZKK is this normal?
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Registered User
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hi,
temperatures here are around 0-4 celsius
havent driven it to try out switch to neutral when stopping.
ive finally done a fuel pressure test, it shows normal 34 psi when idling and 39 when the regulator vac is pulled and stays normal thru the gears and also when it stalled..it blips up when i hit the accelerator but immediately settles. after half hour - an hour of engine off it loses fuel pressure from 39 to 20 psi - injectors? regulator?
Ive ordered a new fuel regulator, dis cap (copper), injectors, coil, plug leads, and some other bits and bobs which should arrive tuesday.
In the meantime i was searching around the dash for vac leaks (since ive had the van theres been some thin ac lines missing/corroded- one red one was cut just behind the ac controls (i presume someone thought it was a power supply) and under the hood theres a circular rubber grommet on the firewall with 4 thin vac lines coming out- 3 of which crumbled to dust- this didn't seem to affect the driveabilty but did mean the ac wouldnt blow cold even though the ac hoses were freezing) anyway i plugged or mended these lines and it seems the engine is a bit more stable- still a rough idle but its hard to make it stall.. idling at around 900 rpm when warm.
i need more petrol now! so will limp it to the garage for a fill up and report back.
It may be worth noting that i was told at some point the van had been fitted with invalid hand controls for a guy in a wheelchair also the previous owner removed the alarm as he didnt have a keyfob for it but all the time ive had it, its started and ran well till now.
i do have a few electrical connectors which dont seem to go anywhere. should i post photos here or start a new thread?
thanks!
temperatures here are around 0-4 celsius
havent driven it to try out switch to neutral when stopping.
ive finally done a fuel pressure test, it shows normal 34 psi when idling and 39 when the regulator vac is pulled and stays normal thru the gears and also when it stalled..it blips up when i hit the accelerator but immediately settles. after half hour - an hour of engine off it loses fuel pressure from 39 to 20 psi - injectors? regulator?
Ive ordered a new fuel regulator, dis cap (copper), injectors, coil, plug leads, and some other bits and bobs which should arrive tuesday.
In the meantime i was searching around the dash for vac leaks (since ive had the van theres been some thin ac lines missing/corroded- one red one was cut just behind the ac controls (i presume someone thought it was a power supply) and under the hood theres a circular rubber grommet on the firewall with 4 thin vac lines coming out- 3 of which crumbled to dust- this didn't seem to affect the driveabilty but did mean the ac wouldnt blow cold even though the ac hoses were freezing) anyway i plugged or mended these lines and it seems the engine is a bit more stable- still a rough idle but its hard to make it stall.. idling at around 900 rpm when warm.
i need more petrol now! so will limp it to the garage for a fill up and report back.
It may be worth noting that i was told at some point the van had been fitted with invalid hand controls for a guy in a wheelchair also the previous owner removed the alarm as he didnt have a keyfob for it but all the time ive had it, its started and ran well till now.
i do have a few electrical connectors which dont seem to go anywhere. should i post photos here or start a new thread?
thanks!