Please share links to any guides or shop manuals helping with head replacement for the 3.9L in a mid 90's Ram/Conversion Van.

Also leave any extra words of advice.

I have a mid level of mechanic experience but have not done this before. Looking to you all for guidance to compare with the advice I am being given from my mechanic neighbor as I tackle the project.

Specific Questions
1. I don't want to travel 40 miles to a shop with compression testing equipment. Are there some simple tests I should consider before buying parts?

2. Is there an easy way to test/diagnose if I just have a cracked head gasket vs. damaged head? Still learning and reading about this while leaving this feed for help.

I know to drain a bit of oil in a jar and examine. IF milky/chocolate then I definitely have at least a gasket crack but is there an easy way to spot head damage?

 

If you have a leaky head gasket you may or may not have water in the oil which will make it appear like chocolate. You may also notice some foaming in the oil.

If you have a blown head gasket and you are leaking water you will have White exhaust smoke.

Compression testing is a good indicator of which cylinder might have the gasket or head leak. Compression testing equipment is pretty cheap.

If you have an advanced auto or auto zone near you they may have a tool loan program and you might get one there. I would try advanced first.

After you pull the head you really need to have it checked by a machine shop to really know if and where it might be cracked. Even is there is not evidence visually of a crack in the head and you suspect its the head gasket only, I would have the head checked.

Jason

 

You can get a pair of rebuilt heads off eBay shipped for about $250 and just swap your's out. This is your best bet because you won't have to worry about cracked or warped heads, plus the valves would have been done already.

 

Great feedback Jason

I'm studying this Chrysler MasterTech Video series ( ) but still have the following questions...


#1. I read that if the compression test shows loss, then you can connect an air compressor and listen/watch for air loss to identify the source. Hoping the leak is on the gasket seal or radiator cap. Thoughts?

*If strong air loss is coming from other locations such as exhaust pipe, oil cap or throttle plate, there is further damage requiring the engine to be removed and rebuilt...which it is then less time to just replace the engine.

#2. Now can you or anyone help me find a link to the manual or other feed with helpful instructions to compare. I'm hoping to find a nice pictorial instead of viewing individual pictures on google/youtube etc... not having much luck.

the best I have found so far is this one by Chrysler MasterTech


I will take the heads 30 miles to my closest shop if I am not seeing or hearing an obvious problem just to make sure before putting it all back together.

 

So far in the part cost debate I am seeing $275 each NEw (Oreillys cheapest I found so far) vs. $100 each refaced. That's a big difference unless I take a risk on used heads on eBay.

thoughts? Helpful sites to check for better prices?

 

I'm only finding $240 each on eBay right now... hope to see a listing come up soon for both for under$300 to make it worth not chancing the originals.

 

It seems like the prices have gone up a bit since I last checked. Here is a pair for $315.00 including shipping and a prepaid return label to send your old ones back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-DOD...fdf6ef&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILT-3-9-...6619cf&vxp=mtr

(You will need the casting number off of your heads for comparison.)

 

Seems you have the answers to your questions Gods speed..

 

I am almost on my way breaking down the engine. Bookmarked the eBay listing. Thank you for taking the time to do that "Alloro"

Still looking for an online manual? (anyone got a source?) It is nearly a 40 mile trip to a parts store and they may not have it...really need one right now to help guide me from asking the following basic questions...

Do I need to drain all the oil before starting?

I saw the air leak down test done on a running engine so I should be able to do this before draining the engine correct?

First thing I am going to do tonight as I am getting started, is drain a bit of oil from the bottom and examine it to make sure it is being mixed and this is the right repair.

I will also do the same on the radiator coolant...

Any other helpful thoughts BEFORE taking the top end apart?

cheers.

 

Here is a factory service manual for a 1995 van

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...of+eBay+Motors

Haynes or chiltons Manuals have less detailed info