no power 1997 ram van 5.2 auto
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Amateur
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From: ct.
no power 5.2
Sounds like a fuel/air mixture issue to me. Starts fine, idles fine, and runs ok lightly loaded but does not make adequate power when you open the throttle.
With the odometer showing 85k miles it is either inaccurate or the truck sat for a long time. The lines and injectors may be gummed up.
You have already dropped the gas tank and replaced the fuel pump assembly. At this point I'd check the fuel line pressure, preferably under load. If that is difficult, you may be able to simulate it by holding the truck with the brake while you open the throttle and load the engine while watching the pressure guage. Don't do this for more than 20 or 30 seconds because it is hard on the torque convertor. If the pressure is low its the pump. If pressure is good then the lines/injectors are probably clogged.
With the odometer showing 85k miles it is either inaccurate or the truck sat for a long time. The lines and injectors may be gummed up.
You have already dropped the gas tank and replaced the fuel pump assembly. At this point I'd check the fuel line pressure, preferably under load. If that is difficult, you may be able to simulate it by holding the truck with the brake while you open the throttle and load the engine while watching the pressure guage. Don't do this for more than 20 or 30 seconds because it is hard on the torque convertor. If the pressure is low its the pump. If pressure is good then the lines/injectors are probably clogged.
Last edited by bnweng; Jul 17, 2012 at 11:47 PM. Reason: none
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From: South Kentucky
When fuel lines become clogged with gum/dirt I've never found anything that would clear them easily. You have to cycle toluene or acetone through them at 40psi or better and eventually they should clear. Injectors don't seem to wear out on these engines from what I've read but they could be gummed up. You would not believe how much sticky residue can result from a half tank of one year old gasoline 
The other possibility is that the cylinders aren't holding pressure. With only 85k miles I would assume that's not the case but it is possible.
The other possibility is that the cylinders aren't holding pressure. With only 85k miles I would assume that's not the case but it is possible.
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From: ct.
no power 5.2
installed crank sensor ===[nothing] sent it out today and everything checked out ok ////now they are leaning to the torque converter [but they want to spend some more of my money first] ======w/ all the things i did i also was thinking tranny
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From: South Kentucky
Maybe. I've heard of certain torque converters getting stuck locked "on" and not unlocking. If the torque converter is stuck locked, you won't get the slippage required to allow the engine rpm's to come up when you need extra power. Like when you tried to pull your boat up the ramp.
However it seems to me the pcm should be sending a trouble code for that because it knows ( and probably decides) when the torque converter should be locked.
However it seems to me the pcm should be sending a trouble code for that because it knows ( and probably decides) when the torque converter should be locked.
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From: South Kentucky
Scratch this. My research says that if the torque converter was locked fulltime you would also experience severe drivability issues ( bucking and stalling going into gear). I suppose the tc could be damaged but really, it doesn't sound like a transmission issue to me.
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From: ct.
hi / my van is at shop/// but someone said vacuum leak// i am thinking this cause heater works fine but ac comes from floor and defroster vents, so something doesnt open or work right ----- is there a way to crimp off the vac line right off the manifold? w/ visegrips or would that cause other problems[[transmission shifting]]
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From: North TX
Most hvac vacuum leaks on these vans are under the hood and can be fixed in a few minutes for less than $10.00. Most often the nylon vacuum line breaks. On the right side of the intake manifold you will see a vacuum line with a check valve that has a line going towards the passenger side headlamp area. Check that line back to the vacuum storage ball and make sure the line is attached to it. Also you will find a line that tees off of the first line you are checking, chase it up towards the top of the firewall and look for a broken or cracked spot. Using 1/8 rubber vacuum line insert both ends of the nylone line into the rubber line. That should fix most of the havc vacuum problems.
Last edited by Mobile Auto Repair; Jul 22, 2012 at 02:35 PM.
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Seems like a common problem doing a search on the www also different models of vehicles as well at about the same time. Not much in the way of solutions. The only thing that seemed to work was new O2 sensors for one person. Other thing could be try running the vehicle a little before towing, a performance chip. How long have you being using your van for this and mls. The problem you have is that an Auto has a protect mode on it and the clutch will just slip and not allow the revs to pick up. the best answer is to have a manual for towing.