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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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Default Antifreeze

Whence empty antifreeze Dodge Ram Van
 
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by stovas
Whence empty antifreeze Dodge Ram Van
????????????

Not sure what you are asking or what kind of information you are asking for.

Might want to correct this
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 03:18 AM
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I do not know how to change the coolant / antifreeze / Dodge ram van
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by stovas
Whence empty antifreeze Dodge Ram Van
Shakespeare has graced us with his presence. Willst though welcome him good fellows?


Originally Posted by stovas
I do not know how to change the coolant / antifreeze / Dodge ram van
At the bottom of the radiator on one corner, not sure which side I think drivers' side. There is a little plug that you open and it runs out. Take off the rad cap when you do it.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 12:01 AM
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Yes the Petcock as its called is located on the driver side lower part of the radiator, start draining with cap on, then as it starts to flow then remove the radiator cap (only when cool) to aid in the flow.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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I do not shine lights reverse. What could be the reason? Lamps and fuses are healthy. Where is the ignition switch?
Thank's!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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I do not shine lights reverse. What could be the reason? Lamps and fuses are healthy. Where is the switch?
Thank's!
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkstr
Yes the Petcock as its called is located on the driver side lower part of the radiator, start draining with cap on, then as it starts to flow then remove the radiator cap (only when cool) to aid in the flow.
Also, when the engine is cold and radiator is drained ... there is coolant still in the engine and water-pump. To remove more fluid, remove the lower hose at the bottom of the radiator. Start the cold engine. The water pump should push out most of the remaining coolant. When empty, connect the hose once again.

Refill the coolant with 50/50 green traditional antifreeze. The long life coolants have less corrosion inhibitor protection.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stev
Also, when the engine is cold and radiator is drained ... there is coolant still in the engine and water-pump. To remove more fluid, remove the lower hose at the bottom of the radiator. Start the cold engine. The water pump should push out most of the remaining coolant. When empty, connect the hose once again.

Refill the coolant with 50/50 green traditional antifreeze. The long life coolants have less corrosion inhibitor protection.
Easier to remove the block drain plugs (hit the local part store to get new replacements as they will be just as rusty as the rest of the under treated metal parts) believe they are 1/4" NPT (if I remember right). Then use air hose to just blow the rest out via the ports or a wet/dry shop vac.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkstr
Easier to remove the block drain plugs (hit the local part store to get new replacements as they will be just as rusty as the rest of the under treated metal parts) believe they are 1/4" NPT (if I remember right). Then use air hose to just blow the rest out via the ports or a wet/dry shop vac.
Really like this idea, however, the real problem is the aftermarket plugs to put back. Much stuff is made cheaply in China or elsewhere, thus the metal used can/could cause future galvanic corrosion conditions.

GM vehicles have a more difficult time with aftermarket cooling parts due to Dexcool requirements. So much, that the corrosion can literally ruin an engine from the inside out.
 
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