How to?

Thanks!

 

Jack one side by frame or cross member.

Remove sway bar links.

Remove strut rod cotter pin and nut

Remove the 2 bolts holding strut rod and sway bar link foot to lower control arm.

The Nut on mine bottomed out on the threads before the torque value listed was reached. Not sure of that figure.

Penetrating fluid and a wire brush beforehand might save a lot of cursing.

 

Thanks!

Do you remember the size of the nut and the bolts on the control arm?

Just want to know if I need to buy a new socket(s) - like I had to when I did the control arms

 

3/4 for the two front bolts and nuts
Something bigger for the back. 7/8 or bigger though

 

Just got done. Wasn't too hard of a job. Took me 2 hrs taking my time. The big nut is 1 1/8 - the front two bolts/nuts are 3/4.

Thanks for the help Landyacht. It was a pretty straightforward job. Only real gotchas was on the side that was really bad, I had to us the floor jack to get the control arm back up enough, and I had to do that for the roll bar on both sides.

No more pop, bing, klunk, shunk etc when turning at slow speeds and in backing.

 

Glad you got it sorted out. Forgot to mention to remove both stabilizer links so it would not fight and require two jacks. Sorry. Simple enough job though.

 

A couple of side notes -
One thing about the old bushings -the rear is actually some kind of hard hard urethane or plastic (seemed strange to me). Also the front was larger than the rear.
The new ones I bought had a F and R on each piece and were almost equal size. I assumed the F would be the section nearer to the control arm.
They are working good. Another noticeable thing is that bumps rattle a lot less.

Again, thanks!

 

Anyone know if this R and R applies to a 1994 B350?
Any differences?

Thanks!