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ac conversion from r12 to r134

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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Default ac conversion from r12 to r134

Since my 1994 van b250 been converted from an R12 system to a R134 system, the ac has not been blowing air as cold as when it was an r12 system. Do i need to change the condenser unit to a bigger, more efficient one? Is there any other unit i can retrofit my system to get colder air?

Thanks,

Alex
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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while converting from 12 to 134 can be successfully done, here are some points are really need to be addressed so it can work right

1. Compressor. You really cannot use an old compressor when converting. R12 Pressure on the high side is only about 200 PSI. R134 goes up to 330 psi. So if you compressor cannot get up this high, it will not be cold
2. Oil. r12 and r134 oils are different and incompatible. Before conversion a total flush of all components is needed. Since you never can get all the oil out of the compressor, a replacement should be done for the foremetioned number one reason and this reason also. When the oils mix, they foam, causing significant performance degradation.
3. The accumulator or dryer must be replaced. No exceptions. There is way too much oil and junk in them.

If you follow these three steps, conversion will be successful. If you didn't done even one of these, poor performance will result.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 12:19 PM
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Thank you for the quick reply.

All the components you mentioned were changed when the conversion was done. They are all r134a components. I was told by an ac technician that a bigger condenser coil might help with cooling the freon going thru there.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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.....
 

Last edited by blackvan; Jul 31, 2016 at 03:24 AM. Reason: removed by me
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by blackvan

Due to the undersized coils and the poor performance of R134a in general, I cannot overstress the importance of getting the proper refrigerant charge. You can't just "put some freon in" and expect it to work properly. Even an ounce or two over or under the correct charge will significantly impair cooling and the system cannot be accurately charged by gauge readings alone. The system must be clean and dry and cannot have a surplus of oil. The refrigerant must be weighed, half added and then the balance added very gradually while monitoring temperature inside the center vents. .
absolutely agree...it is really hard to charge these systems right.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Another problem I'm having with my ac is that I would have my fan on full blast and you could fell air coming out of the vents, but when I accelerate, no air would come out until I ease out of the gas pedal. What would be causing this phenomenon?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 02:28 PM
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Last edited by blackvan; Jul 31, 2016 at 03:33 AM. Reason: removed by me
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 03:24 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I will start looking for vacuum leaks.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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Most likely the vacuum leak is the hose coming off of a vaccum tee on the passanger side intake manifold that goes over and behind the PCM towards the drivers side. It is a black thin vacuum line and in my observations this line deteriorates and becomes brittle. Find this line and replace most of it, you need to leave about 4 to 6 inches off of the fire wall and if you take a piece of it to your local auto parts store they can get you a small size rubber hose to slide over the vacuum line that is left by the fire wall.
 
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