Engine cutting out
I had posted this issue before. I wanted to ask again if anyone has any thoughts on what's happening now that I've been running the van for a while.
I usually see the engine cut out when I'm on the freeway and it's more likely to happen when I'm accelerating. Every once and a while it cuts out when I'm going into work doing 35. Once the engine died at a stop sign. I'm not getting any sputtering just a momentarily cut out on the engine, 1/2 - 1 second at the most. One time I was doing a U-turn and giving it some gas at the same time and it cut out and came back to quickly that I "slammed" the gears in the rear differential hard enough that I got out of the vehicle as I thought someone had rear ended me. This is why I'm thinking it's electrical versus a fuel issue, no sputtering. Having said that there are times when I first start the engine and it sputters for a half minute or so and then settles down.
Is ti possible for something in the distributor to go out? Again, I'm getting no engine light coming on. I had done some work where I had to pull the transmission back from the engine and when I bolted it back up it wouldn't start. I noticed that I had pinched two of the four wires of the four conductor ribbon cable/wire going into the distributor in between the engine block and the transmission. I got it out and then the engine would start. I wiggled the wire but didn't get any reaction so I wrapped some Gorilla tape around it and called it quits.
With no engine light coming on this is hard to diagnose. I suppose it's possible the coil I bought is flaky (BorgWarner) but it's fairly new. Is there a way to test coils?
Thanks in advance,
M. Wagner
I usually see the engine cut out when I'm on the freeway and it's more likely to happen when I'm accelerating. Every once and a while it cuts out when I'm going into work doing 35. Once the engine died at a stop sign. I'm not getting any sputtering just a momentarily cut out on the engine, 1/2 - 1 second at the most. One time I was doing a U-turn and giving it some gas at the same time and it cut out and came back to quickly that I "slammed" the gears in the rear differential hard enough that I got out of the vehicle as I thought someone had rear ended me. This is why I'm thinking it's electrical versus a fuel issue, no sputtering. Having said that there are times when I first start the engine and it sputters for a half minute or so and then settles down.
Is ti possible for something in the distributor to go out? Again, I'm getting no engine light coming on. I had done some work where I had to pull the transmission back from the engine and when I bolted it back up it wouldn't start. I noticed that I had pinched two of the four wires of the four conductor ribbon cable/wire going into the distributor in between the engine block and the transmission. I got it out and then the engine would start. I wiggled the wire but didn't get any reaction so I wrapped some Gorilla tape around it and called it quits.
With no engine light coming on this is hard to diagnose. I suppose it's possible the coil I bought is flaky (BorgWarner) but it's fairly new. Is there a way to test coils?
Thanks in advance,
M. Wagner
Seems like several of us are having similar cutting out issues. I thought I had it solved, because when I changed the coil it ran great for about 2 weeks, then started again, same when I changed the crank sensor.
If you figure out what is causing your engine to quit, please post about it. I think you have 2 threads going about the same issue?
Jim
If you figure out what is causing your engine to quit, please post about it. I think you have 2 threads going about the same issue?
Jim
FYI - That part only controls the fuel injectors not spark. The crank sensor controls the spark.
Would it be accurate to say that the cam sensor sends a signal to the PCM who then in turn signals the injectors to fire? And in a similar fashion the crank sensor sends a signal to the pcm who then in turn sends a signal to the coil to fire? The common denominator being the pcm?
The PCM. I had purchased one due to another issue I had and it turned out that it wasn't the problem. I haven't returned it yet so I could try it. Just need to get the milage reset on it. Not sure who can do that though (and how much). Or I can replace the cam pickup first.
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The VIN needs to be reprogrammed in the PCM so that the computer will understand which engine, transmission, rear axle ratio etc and if you have the factory keyless entry security system. If you remove a PCM from a van with the factory security on it and install that PCM on a different van without the factory security system my information is that it won't even start.
The vehicle milage does not technically need to be reset in order to use it but that info is normally requested by the dealer or whoever is resetting the VIN for you.
The vehicle milage does not technically need to be reset in order to use it but that info is normally requested by the dealer or whoever is resetting the VIN for you.
Jim






