A/C issues
You said the system would not take any more refrig. when you tried. Did you have the a/c on max cool and was the compressor running when you tried? It does make a difference if the compressor is not on,
I did have the A/C on full blast when I attempted to add more refrigerant and I'm pretty sure the compressor was going at the time. I brought back the can after I realized that I didn't need it, so I'll have to buy another can if I want to try it again. For what It's worth, I did some driving just a a few minutes ago and it's still the same - the A/C blows kind of hot at idle.
I ended up driving to a shop and asked how much he would charge me to diagnose my A/C problem. The mechanic said he'd charge around $50.00 which could be worked into the price of the repair if I let him fix it. I'm not really ready to spend any more money on the A/C right now unless I fix it myself, so I'll have to wait until I'm ready to fix the problem before I let him diagnose the issue and then go from there.
I ended up driving to a shop and asked how much he would charge me to diagnose my A/C problem. The mechanic said he'd charge around $50.00 which could be worked into the price of the repair if I let him fix it. I'm not really ready to spend any more money on the A/C right now unless I fix it myself, so I'll have to wait until I'm ready to fix the problem before I let him diagnose the issue and then go from there.
Last edited by Tommy555; Aug 12, 2013 at 01:21 PM.
Actually I would've done this prior to removing the original one. Being the same I probably would've returned the new one and moved on to something else.
When my fan clutch was starting to go bad the only symptom was the same as yours, poor AC performance. My engine was not overheating and the fan clutch I removed still seemed fine when "tested" by turning it by hand.
Test it in traffic then you'll know. The performance of this undersized R134a system at idle will always be somewhat less than at speed of course, but it should be tolerable.
Test it in traffic then you'll know. The performance of this undersized R134a system at idle will always be somewhat less than at speed of course, but it should be tolerable.
Anyway, I've read that I can make sure that the clutch is okay by trying to let something rub against the fan while the engine is running to see if I would be able to manually stop it from spinning. If I can do this safely and it stops, that would indicate that the clutch is bad. If I am unable to stop it, the clutch would be consider good. Does this make sense to you?
Last edited by Tommy555; Aug 12, 2013 at 03:38 PM.
Or course, I wasn't going to be stupid about it (though some might say the very idea of doing this can be considered as stupid on its own), but if I can get some cardboard to stop the fan, that definitely could have told me something about the clutch. I would have known pretty quickly if the fan wasn't going to stop.
Tommy, please don't try to stick something into a moving fan!
And what part of the U.S. do you live in ? I think even the local Midas shop is doing free a/c checks. Could you maybe push a meat thermometer through the front fins of the rad. to check its temp. at idle? Also if you attempt the a/c repair again, spring for one with the gauge . fill on the low side port. I haven't heard of one not being able to take some charge. Follow the directions on the can , usually something about shaking it, and turning it 3 to 9 and back.
And what part of the U.S. do you live in ? I think even the local Midas shop is doing free a/c checks. Could you maybe push a meat thermometer through the front fins of the rad. to check its temp. at idle? Also if you attempt the a/c repair again, spring for one with the gauge . fill on the low side port. I haven't heard of one not being able to take some charge. Follow the directions on the can , usually something about shaking it, and turning it 3 to 9 and back.






