'01 B2500 stock van 170K miles... I wrote before that a recurring P1740 code was not fixed after a replacement OD sensor was installed, and someone helped me out with diagnostic sheet saying the torque converter was probably at fault.

I got a well regarded shop around me to quote on a Jaspar reman tranny installed with 3 yr 100K mile parts and labor nationwide warranty for $2600 complete. Includes fluid a new directional valve going to the cooler and a cooler flush... these are part of the terms of install to get the warranty.

This seems a little high, but I am willing to pay for quality work and quality parts. Jasper puts out a sheet that says all of the upgrades they do to the 46RE tranny when they do the rebuild.

Jasper supplied additional info:
OEM specifies ATF+4 or MOPAR 9602 fluid for all Chrysler units
equipped with a lockup torque converter to reduce clutch apply
chatter. Warranty is void if this fluid not used.

This O/D transmission has a very high failure rate due to the lack of
lubrication. Flushing the existing cooler is not recommended and
cannot be done properly.

Chrysler RWD transmission do not have cooler flow in Park. These
units must be filled and checked in Neutral position. The check valve
located in the cooler line has been the root cause of many
transmission failures. If a cooler kit was purchased from JASPER
there is a new check valve with the cooler kit. If no cooler kit was
purchased, a new cooler check valve must be ordered from your
Chrysler/Jeep dealer or warranty will be void. Do not use Teflon tape
on the cooler fittings as it will crack the case - use a liquid
sealer.

Check overdrive cancel system for proper function prior to installing
the transmission.
As you are well aware, the fluid cooler system is critical to the proper
and warrantable service of your JASPER Transmission. Because you are
inspecting and servicing the fluid cooler system during installation,
it is your responsibility to verify the system is free of contamination
and has proper cooler flow.
In order of preference, here are some options to ensure proper flow.

1. REPLACE WITH A NEW SYSTEM (RADIATOR): Check flow to assure lines are
clear. Check for proper operation of the checkvalve, where applicable.
There are special applications where JASPER requires cooler replacement.
For these cases JASPER provides a cooler kit with the unit. Installation
of the cooler is MANDATORY on these applications or warranty may be void.
2. REPLACE WITH AN EXTERNAL SYSTEM: On applications where air flow
could be restricted, a cooler fan would be required or the installation
of an oil-to-coolant style system
3. FLUSH THE ORIGINAL SYSTEM: JASPER recommends hydraulic shock flushers,
with the heated models being the preferred option. In all cases, always
flow-test at operating temperature. Compare the volume exiting the
transmission to the volume where it returns to the transmission to verify no
loss of flow.
NOTE: JASPER does NOT consider Flush in a Can effective and therefore
not an acceptable method of flushing.
Notes:Product summary: Unit is a 4 speed automatic with overdrive. PK number is stamped into the pain rail on the drivers side of case. Has 14 pan bolts. The 8 pin electrical connector is on the left rear corner of case. Flat Dust Cover - ID from PK Code off Transmission - Cannot determine from VIN Lookup


I just got an online quote of $1845 from Powertrain Products Inc, for 3 yr unlimited mileage reman, so Jasper appears to be inlne with this.

Anybody have any ideas if this is an OK way to go on this?

When I use the van it is usually for long distance travel, and I don't want any problems away from home

 

The price is a little high...

I had my 32RH done by a professional shop here in St. Petersburg for $900 - and that included a new torque converter and all updates. It has performed flawlessly for 18 months now.

The quote I got, as I remember, for the 42RE was around $1600 with a new torque converter. Remember this included removal and reinstall.

I recommend finding the "pros" in your area and have them do it. Tranny rebuilds lead in failure rates of all rebuilds. It is worth the 'insurance' aspect to me.

 

That price seems reasonable since it is a RE type and not an RH type.

About getting a new radiator, the OEM is Valeo made in Mexico. It is a piece of !@$#$@%. LOL The VistaPro made by TSM is a direct fit and better RAD with the tranny cooler. Amazingly, you can flush the tranny cooler when the lines are off of the RAD.

DUE NOTE: When refilling ANY RADIATOR use only DISTILLED WATER. Never tap water.

Also, save your speedo thingy that mounts to your existing tranny. You will need that to go onto the Jasper. The 46RE and 48RE have different speedo thingys that mount to the tranny between the Ram Trucks and Ram Vans.

 

So Stev
are you suggesting that a new rad from VistaPro would be a good idea in this nearly 13 year old van? The Jasper install quote required a flush of the existing tranny cooler and a new one-way valve to the cooler...

I see a Vistapro rad on the rockauto site
VISTA-PRO Part # 433961
for an '01 B2500 5.2 with AC

Is this the rad that has a tranny cooler as part of the rad?

thx for the help Stev...

Roger

 

Verify with RA that the VistaPro has the tranny cooler. I got mine a little over two years back. I don;t have the p/n handy right now.

Also, the VistaPro RADs are made in Nashville, TN.

 

I have had the van back about 8 days and driven it about 400 miles. The Jasper reman tranny has a 100,000 mile 3 yr warranty. Several people have commented that the Jasper trannys are the best going. I have not had the P1740 error come back.

I also ordered the VistaPro rad from rockauto.com I was surprised to see a Made in Mexico sticker on the rad. We filled it with distilled water and anti-freeze. It only cost about $140 freight paid and took two days to get it from a warehouse near Cleveland. The old rad was showing some signs of age, with fins deteriorating.

Next thing I need to do is try to replace plugs on this 5.2 I have seen a few posts lately about trying to get this done. I do not know how long these plugs have been in there, but I have owned this Dodge now for nearly 3 years and 40,000 miles.

My old adage is "if it's not broke, don't fix it" and the van seems to be running strong, but I think I need to do this plug change for some piece of mind.

I saw a TV show where they used Marvel Mystery Oil as a replacement for radiator coolant before removing the heads on an old flat head Ford engine, in the hopes that it might help free up the head bolts. Fortunately or unfortunately they still had to drill out three bolts. I was thinking of warming up the engine, then putting some of that MM oil into the spark plug bore holes in hopes that it would help loosen any corrosion before trying to turn the plugs out. Then maybe follow up with PB Blaster in a like manner on any stubborn plugs. I know to blow/vacuum out the bore holes before getting crap into the cylinders. Am I on the right track?

What is the best plug to get to replace whatever is in there? Is there such a thing as a 100,000 mile plug?

 

You kind of have a lot of questions here in this thread, and I'm only going to address one or two.

If you want a good rebuilt and a company that stands behind their warranty, I have heard nothing but positive things about Jaspar. They supposedly use high quality parts, rebuild to exacting standards and I really hope that works out for you.

I have the Valero Mexican copper/brass radiator. I bought it new two years ago and there isnt any thing wrong with it. Naturally, I'd like to see thicker brackets and better quality brazing but nothing is made like it was 30 years ago. Anyway this radiator is working fine. The price was perfect and I would never buy one of those cheap aluminum rads with plastic tanks because they are impossible to repair once they leak. They were designed to be cheaper and lighter and not to last more than a year or two.

As to the spark plugs and how hard some people find them to remove, don't believe everything you read. I've pulled flood cars that sat in 8' of mud for two years and I've never had any problem stripping those engines down without breaking a single bolt and some of those vehicles were rusted solid. Some things just take time, patience and PB blaster ( or tranny fluid, which works even better IMO) .

Frankly if you lived a little closer to South Texas I'd invite you to drop by and I'd be happy to remove those plugs for you just to help you out, no problem at all.

 

Are you selling or using parts that were under 8 feet of mud for 2 years, and are rusted solid?

rsd if those tubes give you problems they can usually be removed. You can find threads where no problems have been reported after years w/o them. I cant find any reported problems because of removing them. I also can't find anyone but BV that says remove the valve covers to change plugs, it is easier, and cleaner to remove the tire. If you live where salt is used you may want to consider removing the tubes now, cause they will rust through from the inside. I have seen it first hand, and still have the scars to prove it. I know the OE Champions will run after 110k fairly well too. The gap had grown from .040 to around .085 and the electrodes were worn nearly even with the ceramic, and were rounded. The Autolite app5224 says five years, and they are double platinum, some of the iridiums probably go longer, but no experience with them personally.

 

LOL, now why would I do that? Back in the '80s I used to run a salvage and scrap metal business. We had a whole lot of easy business picking up dead clunkers and silly stuff like cars with no wheels abandoned on rental property - but we also had a huge winch and implement trailer that we used to pull flood cars out of revines, ponds, ditches, low water crossings and even storm water canals.

An AMX, Hemi Cuda, Challenger or similar vehicle retains a lot of value even with a bad motor/trans and fairly rusty body parts. Even a plain jane '73 challenger fender with minor surface damage was worth $250 - $350 at the time and that was 20-30 years ago. Hate to think what they get for one today !

Truthfully most of your flood motors and transmissions are mostly useless but some guys still want the heads, intake and exhaust manifolds and assorted misc hardware. And all that stuff still has to come apart in one piece if you want those parts to have any value.

 

If we could actually have perfect stoichiometry. 55% humidity and air temps the same all the time, they yes run a plug 100k miles.

In reality, the longest I have seen them go is 60k miles. Auto lite Platinum seems to be bang for the buck.

Also, I read a lot on this forum about how hard it is to get the spark plugs out. I just want to advise that you only need 15 Ft Lbs on plugs. Basically, let it feel this way - ever go bowling? The amount of muscle force that you exert to pick up a 15 pound ball to one foot above the ground is all you need to exert on the plugs. It really isn't that much.