weird electrical issue(s)?
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Veteran
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NorCal
weird electrical issue(s)?
Ok, so recently, when I try to start my van, one of 3 things happens..... it starts normally, it doesn't do anything, or it just clicks, and doesn't start...... sometimes, I have to jiggle it several times to finally get it to catch..... there shouldn't e any battery issues, as it isn't very old, and when it does start up, it turns over just fine, and I have all my accessories working just fine
now, this might or might not be related, when I am driving, the GEN light comes on and stays on, until I turn the car off, and the battery gauge is at the tick mark just above the 8... not at the 8, but above it, whatever the next one is.. maybe 10v
with that, the gen light came on my way home from work, and the battery gauge was above the 8 again, I just turned the ignition off while still driving, and then back on, and the gen light was gone, and the gauge went to the middle for the rest of my 30 mile ride home
now, this might or might not be related, when I am driving, the GEN light comes on and stays on, until I turn the car off, and the battery gauge is at the tick mark just above the 8... not at the 8, but above it, whatever the next one is.. maybe 10v
with that, the gen light came on my way home from work, and the battery gauge was above the 8 again, I just turned the ignition off while still driving, and then back on, and the gen light was gone, and the gauge went to the middle for the rest of my 30 mile ride home
Last edited by jimbo74; Sep 17, 2013 at 12:39 AM.
To start off: Could be bad battery, or battery connections, or loose alternator connections -- take them loose, clean up the battery posts and connectors, and make sure they're snug when you tighten them up. Find a cheap-o volt meter and make sure the voltage is at least 12.5 static. If the alternator is good, after you start the engine, the voltage should go up to at least 13.5.
Next, could be ignition switch going out.
That's my .02 worth.
Next, could be ignition switch going out.
That's my .02 worth.
All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 808
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This is exactly what the symptoms were when my stupid factory ground wire broke off ( the 10 gauge wire that goes to the firewall ) and it was hanging by a single strand, then one night it suddenly failed. Low voltage, weird altternator readings and alt warning lights but only on certain days that were humid days or after heavy rains.
After I replaced the crazy tiny rediculous 10 gauge wire to the firewall and replaced the factory battery clamps with brass ones, I added two short 4 gauge wires bolted directly to my frame near the rad support and another to the frame rail. After that , all weird electrical problems disappeared and I've never had a problem with this since.
http://webmiscreants.com/im/body_ground.jpg
After I replaced the crazy tiny rediculous 10 gauge wire to the firewall and replaced the factory battery clamps with brass ones, I added two short 4 gauge wires bolted directly to my frame near the rad support and another to the frame rail. After that , all weird electrical problems disappeared and I've never had a problem with this since.
http://webmiscreants.com/im/body_ground.jpg
The cable can be bought in the auto department at WalMart. Look for lawn mower battery cables.
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 1
I wish people would not equate age of a battery with how "good" it still is. Obviously there is a connection, but a new battery discharged to 40%, where it will still easily start the engine, and short trip driven for a month will have lost significantly more capacity in that month than a 2 year old battery which was never allowed to drop below 95% charged.
A battery's lifespan is directly proportional to how close to a full state of charge it is kept. Easiest way to destroy a battery(short of pouring baking soda into the cells) is to discharge it to 20%, and leave it there, or expect the alternator to instantly recharge it after a jumpstart was needed.
So never rely on the alternator to fully recharge a battery which needed a jumpstart. It needs another charging source to return it to full, preferably as soon as possible. Hours and hours of driving are needed to bring the battery above 80%, and that last 20% takes another several hours.
I don't care if you have an alternator rated for 500 amps, it won't be able to shoehorn in more amps into the battery than it can accept.
Bad grounds are notorious issues. The firewall ground is kind of pathetic.
I've got another ground strap from Frame to engine, the same bolt which the alternator ground goes to.
My firewall ground now has a larger self tapping bolt, and fresh ring terminals crimped/ soldered with liquid electrical tape under the heatshrink.
A battery's lifespan is directly proportional to how close to a full state of charge it is kept. Easiest way to destroy a battery(short of pouring baking soda into the cells) is to discharge it to 20%, and leave it there, or expect the alternator to instantly recharge it after a jumpstart was needed.
So never rely on the alternator to fully recharge a battery which needed a jumpstart. It needs another charging source to return it to full, preferably as soon as possible. Hours and hours of driving are needed to bring the battery above 80%, and that last 20% takes another several hours.
I don't care if you have an alternator rated for 500 amps, it won't be able to shoehorn in more amps into the battery than it can accept.
Bad grounds are notorious issues. The firewall ground is kind of pathetic.
I've got another ground strap from Frame to engine, the same bolt which the alternator ground goes to.
My firewall ground now has a larger self tapping bolt, and fresh ring terminals crimped/ soldered with liquid electrical tape under the heatshrink.
