BTW, 8mm wires are the OE size for the Magnum engines. It's hard to find wires like that for our engine sizes. The universal wire kits are so-so. My wire set was from RockAuto, Prestolite 7.5mm for under $20. They are hold up well for 40,000 miles. So, I bought another set as a backup down the mileage trail.

 

any suggestion about maybe going one heat range colder?

 

Going a heat range cooler will decrease your MPG a bunch.

The Autolite AP5224 are the proper heat range.

AP3923 or the APP3923 is the cooler plug.

More history here ...
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/Spar...plugsEricP.htm

Just be careful about Champion and NGK plugs. Those are nickle plated. If you live in an area that has road salt or tend to not change your plugs often enough, getting these plugs out of the block can be costly. I had (and others in the forum too) spent hundreds getting plugs that fused to the block.

The Autolite, MotorCraft and ACDelco plugs are not nickle plated. They have hardened black-oxide that does not react to steel nor corrodes.

"Black Oxide is used to provide a protective over metal. It provides corrosion resistance, but has a uniform black finish that does not alter the dimensions of the part after processing. The coating does not chip or peel and acts as an absorbent to hold oils or wax. Black Oxide coatings are used on firearms, spark plugs, furniture brackets, mower blades and other products where a uniform black surface is desired. This coating is economical and offers a variety of valuable properties to extend the service life and improve the performance characteristics of the part." - http://www.unitedplating.com/black-oxide.shtml

 

Hello funair02, I have a 2001 Dodge B3500 1Ton Maxi Van That I Bought a few Years ago. Everytime it rained the van would misfire and it got better after warm up. This went on for a few years, Finally I got stuck at a major intersection and had to have it towed 1/4 mile for 192.00, nice guy. I figured it would not run for either two reasons no gas possibly a fuel pump in gas tank or no spark. I always look for the most obvious and the cheapest solution first. I took a look at the ignition coil. The stack of plates that are around the coil area were separated because of rust and corrosion. This drove me crazy for about a month just before it completely died, However it had been going on for a couple of years. I noticed that the engine seemed to be getting fuel, so I pulled the dog house off and put a used spark plug in on one of the rear wires, let it rest on the cylinder head, cranked the engine and it had no spark. I took a chance, and replaced the ignition coil and that solved the problem. Good Luck!

 

It's been a few years since this thread started but here's some anecdotal experience I've had.

I'm tuning up my 2003 Dodge Ram Van 5.2L with 257,000+ miles on it. Just started getting P0300 misfire codes on two cylinders along with rough idle. Was getting 15-16 mpg unloaded with speed limit highway driving prior to this.

I've been running a Belden 700100 wire set for the last 100,000+ miles with no issues at all. I'm replacing that set with a new one of the same, got it off the shelf from the local NAPA for $27 on sale. All wires have split loom tubing covers on them from the distributor cap to the first wire holder they hit.

I've been running NGK-6441 plugs for the last 60,000+ miles with no issue. Ran the same prior to that set and will replace with the same.

Distributor cap and rotor have had much more frequent replacement, typically every 20,000 - 30,000, although I've never had a misfire code. I have used in the past:
BWD Distributor Rotor - Part No D223P $6.59
BWD Distributor Cap - Part No C274P $15.99

Airtex / Wells 3D1090A Distributor Cap & Rotor $ 14.85

This time I'm going with a WVE 3D1090A from Rock Auto $10.03 plus shipping/tax.

Be sure to use copious amount of dielectric grease when you install the plug boots. I'm paying for not using enough the last time!

YMMV, Cheers!

 

You should spend a little more on the cap and rotor, and get the brass terminal fellers.

I won't buy anything Airtex..... Their quality sucks, and they have let me down once too often. (I have had their distributor caps fail within 10 minutes of replacement..... the accel cap that replaced it was still on the car 40,000 miles later, when I sold it.)

 

HeyYou, I never had a problem with any of the cap/rotors listed, but I typically replace them every other air filter change anyway which runs between 20K-30K. BTW, I did go with brass, Rock Auto just had a great price on it. Here's the WVE 3D1090A product info:

WVE Premium Distributor Cap and Rotor Kits include caps that are molded from mica-filled & glass-filled polyester for the best dielectric strength in the market. Tough, highly-conductive brass and copper inserts are used to increase efficiency by resisting corrosion and oxidation. The rotors have brass blades in the precise size with radio frequency interference (RFI) suppression coating that ensures accurate spark gap to eliminate RFI. Features corrosion-resistant stainless steel contact springs to maintain tension.

 

Good Choice.

 

FYI, aluminum has a conductivity rating of 61% while brass is only 28% which makes aluminum a better conductor of electricity. Brass would be better in a marine environment because of the corrosive nature of the salt air and water.

 

Even here in michigan, on dry land, I have had aluminum terminals corrode to the point that the cylinders won't fire any more..... I stick with brass, and have fewer issues.

Of course, my current truck doesn't even HAVE a distributor..... so, its a lot less of an issue.