passenger window dies
'01 B2500... right window slides down, but won't go back up all the way... I wait a minute or two and it goes up a bit more until it finally will close. Gets worse in colder weather; sometimes rolls up fine in warm weather... ONCE, but will die near the top of travel if done a second time.
I took off the door molding to get to the window motor to see if there was any binding. The window slides up and down by hand with ease and the motor is clean and seems plenty strong with plenty of torque. Put everything back together and still have the same problem.
Is there an electrical component or fuse that might be weak for just the passenger window as the driver window works fine?
I don't want to spend $50 for a motor and find out that does not solve the problem.
I took off the door molding to get to the window motor to see if there was any binding. The window slides up and down by hand with ease and the motor is clean and seems plenty strong with plenty of torque. Put everything back together and still have the same problem.
Is there an electrical component or fuse that might be weak for just the passenger window as the driver window works fine?
I don't want to spend $50 for a motor and find out that does not solve the problem.
I've taken those motors apart, cleaned the brushes and contacts, then put it all back together. Afterwards the motor runs like new. The only time I actually replace the motor is if it cannot come apart or if the end bushings are worn.
I thought about taking it apart... got stymied at the point where the two wiring harness connectors pull apart... did not want to break the connector as I could not figure how to get it apart
as I said the motor seems to work fine...
as I said the motor seems to work fine...
Its usually the motor. Replacement motors cost about $40. I used to rebuild power window and power seat motors but no longer feel its worth my time.
Before replacing it I would check the voltage across the motor while its running. The switch or connectors could be dirty or failing and cause voltage drop. If you have no voltage when it fails, or have voltage but its dropping below 10v when its working I would try running the motor directly via hot wire, spare battery, 12v power supply, whatever. If it runs perfectly from a separate power source then you know it has to be the wiring/switches/connectors etc. I believe there is a power window relay as well, will have to dig out my manual and get back to you.
Before replacing it I would check the voltage across the motor while its running. The switch or connectors could be dirty or failing and cause voltage drop. If you have no voltage when it fails, or have voltage but its dropping below 10v when its working I would try running the motor directly via hot wire, spare battery, 12v power supply, whatever. If it runs perfectly from a separate power source then you know it has to be the wiring/switches/connectors etc. I believe there is a power window relay as well, will have to dig out my manual and get back to you.
Last edited by blackvan; Jul 25, 2014 at 02:21 PM.
Ok so no relay but there is a circuit breaker. However if that breaker failed then none of the power windows will work. FSM says check the switch and wiring first, then test the motor out of circuit as I've described. Disconnect from factory wiring harness, test motor with +/- polarity in one direction then the other.






