drivng along and she stared to stutter...then just stopped.. new coil,plugs,wires, distributer cap, rotor, and thing under it..... Have good spark gas flows, engine turns over, but no start....sounds like it wants to start, almost misfires.....Dazed & Confused... Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions


Started from scratch...redid wires, distrib, coil, plugs, gas in tank...sprayed a little starter fluid.
turns over real swell.. almost starts... misfires? backfires? big bang,flames,fire in the carb. but still no start... flames shoot to the roof very exciting

 

I did a full tuneup about 3 weeks ago too...it didn't stop but it started to run rough and shutter around 20 MPH. Here's a link to that thread (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...er-tuneup.html).

Check your wires...I ended up crossing the #6 & #8 plug wires. Also, make sure you follow the TSB on the spark plug wire routing.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm

Hope that helps.

 

If you have spark and fuel it should run. You may have crossed the spark plug wires and possibly the timing chain may have jumped a tooth or two. The fuel/air mixture could be too rich or lean for combustion.


So bottom line it could be many things but I would recheck the wires, cap, rotor and coil first as a weak spark will not fire the engine.

 

Spray starting fluid down the intake and see if the engine fires up at all.

 

Did you do the key dance to get any flashing/blinking codes first? This would help eliminate the need to keep buying parts and hoping to find the bad one.

 

No joy, please check orig msg

 

Remove distributor cap

Crank engine
See if rotor moves.

If not, broke timing chain

Checking computer codes is a valid reply

Does your check engine light illuminate at all?

IF you do not do the key dance, and do not get at least a code 12 or code 55 the ECM is not getting power.

 

rotor moves... no check light and no joy with connection for reading code.... any other way to check ECM?

 

Insert key, turn to on, not start.

open hood, Locate engine computer on upper firewall.

Grab multi wire connectors and move and wiggle them.

You might hear relays click and the idle speed motor click on.

If so, Dusconnect battery, remove connectors, and clean out all old grease with a spray electronics cleaner and perhaps a brush. both mating sides of all connectors

Then get this product:

This stuff is magic electrical contact juice a thousand times more effective than regular spray cleaners at removing oxidation on the connector.

It is possible the ECM's ground or power wires are compromised. My ground is taken on intake manifold at coil's foot(1989) and there is a fusible link dedicated for the ECM too located nearer the battery, and there is a connector for it as well.

The Deoxit is key. They sell a gold and a Shield version which both enhance conductivity and protect from corrosion.

The Dielectric grease you will find inside the connector is supposed to protect from moisture intrusion and corrosion, but can also cause issues on old connectors.

If the wiggling the connector causes relays or the idle speed motor to come on, then read the ECM thread currently a few down the list.

I am dealing with this issue currently, but mine is caused by broken solder contacts on the computer circuitboard.

 

The distributor must be turning since he's getting spark.

After re-reading his first post I think his timing chain jumped a tooth or two. This would still spin the distributor and create spark, except the valve to ignition timing would be incorrect and allow the plugs to fire while the intake valves were still open. Hence the backfire and flames from the carb.