Rear drum brakes red hot after replacing shoes
I'm at my wits end with my 1999 Ram 1500 van.
I can't seem to solve this problem and need some help!
I'll say all what I've already tried.
It started when I replaced the brake shoes on both rear drum brakes. I had the drums turned too, (the first time these were turned). I've done this job before, any number of times, and thought I knew how to do it.
I also put on new wheel cylinders at the same time.
Everything seemed to work well, the brakes felt perfectly fine, there's no pull, no vibration, no locking up or anything. But after some around town driving I noticed a burning odor when exiting the van, checked the driver side and passenger side for heat. The passenger side is blazing hot, can't really touch it. The drivers side is just warm, not unusual at all.
After the overheating starts, a squeak starts as well.
After research online and asking others, I have done these things (and still it overheats after each step, just on the passenger side):
Replaced all the springs and fittings with a new drum kit.
Replaced both self adjusters.
I inspected the backing plate, there is no indication that it is rubbing anywhere, so I think it is good.
Inspecting everything, making sure there is no dirt in there.
Axle is running cool, so I don't think it is bearings.
Somebody suggested the old drum could be warped or something so I bought a new drum for that side.
Each time I take it apart, the drum slips back on easily enough, and the wheel turns like I think it should.
The passenger side still is getting hot. But not AS hot as before and it is cooling off quicker. I think.
No squeaking now, but it was not squeaking all the time before and sometimes didn't start to squeak until way after it got hot.
So is there anything else someone could suggest for me to try? I hate to keep buying parts. I wish I hadn't bought a new drum, that obviously wasn't the problem.
Or have I finally got it fixed and the brake now just needs to "break in?"
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I can't seem to solve this problem and need some help!
I'll say all what I've already tried.
It started when I replaced the brake shoes on both rear drum brakes. I had the drums turned too, (the first time these were turned). I've done this job before, any number of times, and thought I knew how to do it.
I also put on new wheel cylinders at the same time.
Everything seemed to work well, the brakes felt perfectly fine, there's no pull, no vibration, no locking up or anything. But after some around town driving I noticed a burning odor when exiting the van, checked the driver side and passenger side for heat. The passenger side is blazing hot, can't really touch it. The drivers side is just warm, not unusual at all.
After the overheating starts, a squeak starts as well.
After research online and asking others, I have done these things (and still it overheats after each step, just on the passenger side):
Replaced all the springs and fittings with a new drum kit.
Replaced both self adjusters.
I inspected the backing plate, there is no indication that it is rubbing anywhere, so I think it is good.
Inspecting everything, making sure there is no dirt in there.
Axle is running cool, so I don't think it is bearings.
Somebody suggested the old drum could be warped or something so I bought a new drum for that side.
Each time I take it apart, the drum slips back on easily enough, and the wheel turns like I think it should.
The passenger side still is getting hot. But not AS hot as before and it is cooling off quicker. I think.
No squeaking now, but it was not squeaking all the time before and sometimes didn't start to squeak until way after it got hot.
So is there anything else someone could suggest for me to try? I hate to keep buying parts. I wish I hadn't bought a new drum, that obviously wasn't the problem.
Or have I finally got it fixed and the brake now just needs to "break in?"
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
im experiencing the same problem,i just redone my rear brakes,new shoes,spring,wheel cylinders, but, not the drums...I noticed the same issues you have described my left wheel got so hot I couldn't touch it, so I swapped my left and right drum to see if it would help, and now the right wheel gets extremely hot!! so in my situation id say I need drums,just haven't gotten the money yet...double check your brake springs especially the retainer spring, your shoes should be resting against the backing plate after you pull the drum off with no gap in between them..
Could be a collapsed brake hose on that side. I had that happen once. Kept replacing parts and it still got hot enough to melt the wheel cylinder boots. Finally found that the brake hose had collapsed inside and was acting like a Che k valve. It let pressure in but not out.
Thanks! Do you mean the rubber hose that comes from the splitter valve by the differential? Or one of the metal lines?
I wish I had a diagram of all that, couldn't find on online for my year.
Can it be blown out or just replaced?
I wish I had a diagram of all that, couldn't find on online for my year.
Can it be blown out or just replaced?
Yes, used all new springs. Tried a new drum so that wasn't it. But thanks.
Yes. The rubber line and no it has to be replaced.
Thanks! I'm headed out there now to check that out.
Should I try to blow out the steel lines as well, or is that not necessary right now?
OK I've looked at this hose, and before I take it off I really need a bit more info.
You are saying that this could be collapsed inside, right? Does this mean it will show no sign of a problem on the outside of it? It looks good on the outside.
And, more critically, can this really affect just the passenger side? Because it goes to a junction and the metal line goes to the passenger side and another metal line to the driver's side.
I am a DIYer, not a mechanic, so this step will be a challenge for me, and then I will also have to bleed the brakes again, and have no bleeding kit. I will take this off though, and replace it if the answer is yes it can affect just one side.
I'm going to read through the service manual again, but so far I have found very little helpful info about the brakes in there.
Should I try to blow out the steel lines as well, or is that not necessary right now?
OK I've looked at this hose, and before I take it off I really need a bit more info.
You are saying that this could be collapsed inside, right? Does this mean it will show no sign of a problem on the outside of it? It looks good on the outside.
And, more critically, can this really affect just the passenger side? Because it goes to a junction and the metal line goes to the passenger side and another metal line to the driver's side.
I am a DIYer, not a mechanic, so this step will be a challenge for me, and then I will also have to bleed the brakes again, and have no bleeding kit. I will take this off though, and replace it if the answer is yes it can affect just one side.
I'm going to read through the service manual again, but so far I have found very little helpful info about the brakes in there.
Last edited by zzbb; Oct 31, 2015 at 10:42 AM. Reason: adding to the question
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Yes. Mine gave no indication on the outside but it had collapsed inside where the hose was clamped to the frame. I would not worry about the metal lines. Replacing the hose was my last attempt and it only cost like $13. After I got it off, I cut it open and sure enough. Collapsed. And it was only one side.
First off, thanks for your quick replies!
@jkeaton OK I've taken this part off. I have not cut it open yet, but air does go through both ways. Still, it could have a problem inside and as long as I have it off I will replace it.
Naturally nobody has it in stock, so tomorrow or Monday will tell the tale.
Thanks again I do appreciate your help.
@jkeaton OK I've taken this part off. I have not cut it open yet, but air does go through both ways. Still, it could have a problem inside and as long as I have it off I will replace it.
Naturally nobody has it in stock, so tomorrow or Monday will tell the tale.
Thanks again I do appreciate your help.
Sorry, I didn't read all of the reply posts here.
Had the same issues and found out that A) the newer shoes are thicker than the worn shoes on the rear drum asm. B) adjusting the "self-adjuster" fixed the read hot glowing drum problem (and the brake smoke too!)
Had the same issues and found out that A) the newer shoes are thicker than the worn shoes on the rear drum asm. B) adjusting the "self-adjuster" fixed the read hot glowing drum problem (and the brake smoke too!)






