I have a 1983 dodge ram b350 8 cylinder van.
The last week has been a cold one in the single digits and the van only starts after a lot of popping, revving and fussing. I'm afraid I did irreversible damage by putting it through these hard starts. I was just about to change my oil to synthetic and get a new oil filter to see if it would start in the cold better too.

Not sure if this next bit of information is important but several months ago my exhaust was hanging down and there was also a hole in the pipe towards the end. All I've done so far is hang it back up and taped over the hole. Maybe there's exhaust back up or something?

Anyway..
This morning the van died while pulling into the driveway. Then I drove it again this evening and it died while pulling up to a light after getting off the highway. I started it up again and it died after 10 seconds. Then I tried again and immediately started driving and it carried me down the road for about 2 minutes before I smelled burning.. so I pulled into a parking lot and there I left it overnight.

I haven't checked the oil or transmission fluid or radiator fluid or whatever yet.. I don't know much about vehicles so I could really use any advice on how to proceed. Should I call a mobile mechanic to meet me there? Should I try driving it to a shop? Should I try to change the oil and filter myself or something?
From my research I've heard about checking for:
Clogged catalytic converter.
Clogged fuel filter.
Transmission valve body solenoid issue.
Defective TCS or torque converter solenoid
low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump.

I'm going to research all of these the best I can but if anyone has any good guesses with the information I've provided and how to go about this without spending a fortune (if I don't have to) it would help out a lot!

Thanks in advance!

 

Hello Let me start off be saying im just a DIY guy following Youtubes.
I have a 2003 Dodge 1500 5.2L Van with some issues.
The battery isnt holding a charge and seem to die every day or couple of days. I think something is draining the batteries. I recall hooked into the system the battery off and on would be about .2 to .4 V of difference.

Main Questions:
Is there any known parasitic drain issues?
What amount of voltage would the car use while parked and off?
Can someone direct me to how a PCM problem can be detected or resolved.
Also what would a bad ground do? The ground to the engine the bolt holding it in place is rusted and i cant move it.

If the battery is being jumped. One must give it some gas useually or else it wont turn over and stay at idle. Also when it is turned over the gas must be pressed for a few minutes or it wont idle. If you just turn key and pump the gas the engine will roar and then shut off. Hence it needs to be kept pressed for a few minutes until it will idle on its own. At first I thought it was the alternator. Tried to install a new one and tested the old one on a bench and it was ok. So i put the original back in. Upon inspection I saw the tensioner had some swaying id say a good half a cm. Maybe the belt isnt tight enough? In addition I think something is draining the battery. Maybe some lights or something. I know when i open the car im greeted with every light inside thats on. Is there a way to shut them all off?

I will keep sifting for information on this and will post or editing my question until I can find a resolution. I wish I had a quality DMM but the only one I have is a $5 free one to test the Battery. Which doesnt hold a charge long while hooked in to the car. I will get the battery tested too soon. Which was replaced not too long ago. Less than 2 years.

Thanks to anyone who has read thru this frenzy.

 

Hijacking threads not advisable, but in an effort to assist both queries: battery should read 12.6 when fully charged, engine off. Start engine, watch voltmeter. After a minute or so the voltage should jump to 13.5 - 14. If it does not, alternator is not charging and you'll need to determine wether its the voltage regulator in the pcm/ecu or the alternator itself.

Once you have verified the battery is in fact charging it is my experience that idle issues e.g. dying at stop lights, hard to keep running at idle, hard starting are IAC related. Clean or replace the IAC. OP (The guy with the 1983): dying or backfiring generally indicates a lean condition. If you dont have fuel injection then the jets are clogged or the float is sticking. Time to rebuild the carburetor.