stalling and ignition troubles
#1
07-05-2017, 05:46 PM
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stalling and ignition troubles
Hi, I have a 1995 dodge ram b250 conversion van. It has a v6 3.9L engine. It has been having varing problems with stalling and dying for some months now. Started as just stalling out, and I could get it started again immediately. Now when it stalls out, it will need about an hr or so before i can start back up again. Whenever it stalls and dies the van is at idle or very low speeds. It's never died on the highway. Only at lights and bumper to bumper traffic. Actually only once of twice i couldn't get it started at all, but that was after i had been driving around for a bit; went into a store, and when i came back out it wouldn't start. As far as consistancy goes, it's all over the place. Might be 10 mins after pulling out of driveway, 30mins, and hr. Who knows.
As far as i know most of the parts are original parts, and the van had about 127,000 miles on it when i bought it last september. I started off with replacing the idle air control valve. That made things ok for about a week. Next i looked to either the spark system of the fuel system. One time recently when it died, I gave it some starter fluid. Nothing. So i got a new ignition coil, and the next time it died i switch em out, and the engine started up immediately. However a half hr later it died again.
Which leaves me where i am now. I've taken it to several auto shops, didn't get much help. I realize it i can drive it to a shop, the problem has momentarilly fixed itself. One place i brought it to actually did find a few things, and they were the ones that pointed me to the idle air control valve. They also thought that the timing belt needed to be changed, however someone else told me that timing belts either work or don't. Also its gonna be super expensive to replace so i'm holding out on that idea until the very end.
I've had some friends who are pretty knowledgeable helping me out. One thinks that its the ignition spark, and for now wants to me check the temperature next time it dies, so we determine if its the coolant temperature sensor. My other friends seem to think its the fuel system. One friend had a problem in the past with a geo metro having, seemingly the same problem. For him it turned out to be the fuel injectors. Another said that somestimes electric fuel pumps overheat and need to cool off.
So hoping someone would have insight into this annoyingly unreliable problem. Should i pursue the ignition line of thought, or should i look at the fuel system even though started fluid couldn't get it started? (keep in mind, i've only tried using starter fluid once.) Or should i try both? Or, god forbid, is it the timing belt.
I'm based out of portland, oregon, if that helps at all.
Thanks for the help.
As far as i know most of the parts are original parts, and the van had about 127,000 miles on it when i bought it last september. I started off with replacing the idle air control valve. That made things ok for about a week. Next i looked to either the spark system of the fuel system. One time recently when it died, I gave it some starter fluid. Nothing. So i got a new ignition coil, and the next time it died i switch em out, and the engine started up immediately. However a half hr later it died again.
Which leaves me where i am now. I've taken it to several auto shops, didn't get much help. I realize it i can drive it to a shop, the problem has momentarilly fixed itself. One place i brought it to actually did find a few things, and they were the ones that pointed me to the idle air control valve. They also thought that the timing belt needed to be changed, however someone else told me that timing belts either work or don't. Also its gonna be super expensive to replace so i'm holding out on that idea until the very end.
I've had some friends who are pretty knowledgeable helping me out. One thinks that its the ignition spark, and for now wants to me check the temperature next time it dies, so we determine if its the coolant temperature sensor. My other friends seem to think its the fuel system. One friend had a problem in the past with a geo metro having, seemingly the same problem. For him it turned out to be the fuel injectors. Another said that somestimes electric fuel pumps overheat and need to cool off.
So hoping someone would have insight into this annoyingly unreliable problem. Should i pursue the ignition line of thought, or should i look at the fuel system even though started fluid couldn't get it started? (keep in mind, i've only tried using starter fluid once.) Or should i try both? Or, god forbid, is it the timing belt.
I'm based out of portland, oregon, if that helps at all.
Thanks for the help.
#2
07-05-2017, 07:17 PM
Check for codes, if you don't have a code reader try this.. it should work
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/pcm_fault_code.htm
Just a guess here but have had those symptoms, (dying coming to a stop and in slow traffic, no start right away) before on my 99 5.9 and what solved the problem was replace the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). This likely won't throw a code but does cause a no start and engine dying suddenly ax if the key was shut off. There are some fairly easy tests you can do if you're handy with a multimeter and rather try and be sure first.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...-sensor-test-1
my question to you is when you replaced your IAC did you be sure to clean out the carbon crud in the orifice before installing the new one? That really should be done.
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/pcm_fault_code.htm
Just a guess here but have had those symptoms, (dying coming to a stop and in slow traffic, no start right away) before on my 99 5.9 and what solved the problem was replace the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). This likely won't throw a code but does cause a no start and engine dying suddenly ax if the key was shut off. There are some fairly easy tests you can do if you're handy with a multimeter and rather try and be sure first.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...-sensor-test-1
my question to you is when you replaced your IAC did you be sure to clean out the carbon crud in the orifice before installing the new one? That really should be done.
