I learned a lot from this informative article on your problem:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html

It's highly recommended reading for all of us. 8)

 

my apology, it's been a couple times recently that I've commented and missed the info provided, it's getting embarrassing
There's an ad for pcm exchange just a few threads below this one you might check out to get an idea on pricing or you can call a local parts store near you which may be better idea incase of failure and having to exchange.

The relays you're looking for will be in the black plastic box near the battery the pdc (power distribution center) The under side of the lid has the lay out diagram, you might try swapping the asd one with another that you know is working.

disconnect the battery and cleaning up the 3 plug connections at the pcm with some electrical spray cleaner can't hurt either

sorry again

 

Auto Shut Down relay. The key turns on the ASD and the ASD turns on power to the PCM, ignition circuits, and in some models the fuel pump.

 

thank you.. That helps me! I did have some that checked there. said they were good.. Am making a note of this Thanks again!

 

Thank you

 

No, The PCM turns on the ASD relay. It will not stay on if you turn the key to "on" and leave it there. It's timed so it only stays on a short period without trying to crank/start it. It powers the coil,02's and fuel injectors. Start with simple things first. If your ignition is drooping out(not the dash/gauges)it could be either the crank or cam sensor assuming the coil is good. ASD relays rarely ever go bad. Pcm needs inputs from both crank and cam sensors or the engine will not run. If you are getting "no buss" or the dash/gauges are dropping out it could be a connection issue at the pcm.

 

I am going to try to replace the ignition switch first. If you have a good website for that?, remember I am an amateur. LOL
I know I may need to retire this van soon, I gained alot as usual..Thank you all.

 

ignition switch rockauto dot com

I replaced mine... not easy, but doable... after I did it, the key was really hard to turn the ignition switch on... personally I don't think that is the problem although it could be, but I doubt it... I would do this last... check for youtube videos

I would replace the cam and crank sensors first and check those connections. Those are fairly easy, and as someone mentioned replace the COIL... and check the coil wires... they can be a problem when old.

you might even want to take out the instrument panel... not that hard to do, just lots of screws in the dashboard to take out... check those connectors

Purchase some DeOxit spray from amazon...

use on all wire connectors

If you can get the van running wiggle the three harnesses on the PCM to see if you can get it to stall

DISCONNECT the POS + lead from the battery whenever you pull harnesses from the PCM... reinstall connector to test

pull off the PCM harness... (be gentle) there are three harnesses... take off the covers, then pull on the connectors and wiggle at the same time and check the tightness and oxidation level of those connections and spray with DeOxit. reinstall then connect battery

I think a key to watch for and something you have not mentioned is the NO BUSS indication if you cannot start... that is what ultimately gave me my worst problem... when the Dodge would quit while driving there was not enough time to see that indication on the dash gauges... although I did notice the speedo went to 0 and the fuel guage dropped too... only after it started to give me starting problems did I notice the msg which appeared when the gauges did not work.

 

Have the feeds to the EGR, both vacuum and electrical, been tested? Under proper conditions the EGR actuates sporadically and not constantly throughout the rpm range. If it did actuate throughout the range, then the motor would run very poorly and rough.

 

wow, I just have to try a few little things..Money wise let you know