'84 Ram Van B350, let's go!
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Rookie
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 63
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Thanks. Now... with the new thermostat and sensor the temp gauge is active and usually stays at one click below the H. I drove it for about two hours the other day (suburban traffic, 90-degree day, etc.) and the needle crept near the H but never got there. I am reading that these 5.9s run hot... so, would the previous owner (knowing this) have just left the stuck-open thermostat in there, so that it's constantly cooling off such a hot engine?
Grand Champion
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 721
From: S.W. Indiana
Thanks. Now... with the new thermostat and sensor the temp gauge is active and usually stays at one click below the H. I drove it for about two hours the other day (suburban traffic, 90-degree day, etc.) and the needle crept near the H but never got there. I am reading that these 5.9s run hot... so, would the previous owner (knowing this) have just left the stuck-open thermostat in there, so that it's constantly cooling off such a hot engine?
I used to have an '01 with the 5.9 and it never ran that high on the gauge. Get a remote infrared temperature reader and see what the temperature is at the base of the water neck. If your dash gauge is reading wrong, replace the sender unit. If it's really reading that hot, check inside the radiator and see if the core tubes are open. They might be clogged. If the radiator is open, you might want to check for exhaust gasses in the radiator.
Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 547
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From: Ontario
Get it up to temperature, turn it off, and feel over the radiator. If you have cold spots you need a new radiator. Out of the 4 ticks and the 1st tick being the bottom, you should be sitting around the 2nd tick when puttering around based on my experience with the 318.
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Thanks. Well, there are no cold spots that I can feel. I was also advised to ensure both hoses were equally hot and I was getting good heat inside. Lots of heat inside, hot hose on top, but the bottom hose not so much... possible clogging? Picked up new hoses, water pump, and radiator to cover all bases.
Grand Champion
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5,146
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From: S.W. Indiana
Regarding brakes... noticed some mushiness in the pedal when navigating a 10-point turn shortly after a cold start. After cooling down, I checked the master cylinder, noticed it was low and put in about 10 oz of DOT-3. This would be the first time in over a year I noticed a low level... no visible leaks, etc. I'm keeping an eye on the level, but raised an eyebrow on this one... anything else I should check?
Also, should the brake pedal always have consistent pressure/travel? Should it differ depending on if the engine is on or off? Time after a cold start, etc? Thanks.
Also, should the brake pedal always have consistent pressure/travel? Should it differ depending on if the engine is on or off? Time after a cold start, etc? Thanks.
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New Door Seals
Just installed this new door seal on the passenger door. The shape/contour matches the original, but even after three days the door won't close past the first 'click'. I've read these take time to wear in, etc... others say to adjust the striker. Any advice? Thanks.
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Trying to gauge if my new battery (Autocraft Gold, 700 CCA) is up to par... sitting still I'm showing 12.6v, when cranking it drops to about 10v (occasionally 8-9v)... then about 15.3 when idling... seem about right?
Grand Champion
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 721
From: S.W. Indiana
Are you sure it's dropping to 8 volts? Usually 12v starters won't crank at that low a voltage.