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I tried to do preventive maintenance and I made it worse - TPS & IAC 97 VAN B2500

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Old 12-01-2018, 05:23 PM
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Red face I tried to do preventive maintenance and I made it worse - TPS & IAC 97 VAN B2500

Evening all. First post. I have always been able to do everything from just reading your great help topics without asking but now I'm stuck and I really need to get her back to normal as I have to pick up a Marine brother from active on Monday morning so any help would be appreciated.

Pizza for anyone who can help.

97 B2500 5.2 - Had p1294 code pop up (Target Idle Not Reached) - Now I hadn't noticed any real Slip or gain in idle (about 1k at park - 850-900 at a light) but figured I would do this and see if it helped on shifting/high rpms on city roads. Upon investigating on DF and reading over this diy: https://dodgeforum.com/how-tos/a/dod...c-valve-395402

I decided to use my points at Advanced and also buy a TPS with the IAC. And this is where it begins - AGAIN NOTE I Had NO issues with driving, gears or throttle cable before this. Idles may have been a bit high but that was fine too. This was just "preventive"

So I replaced the IAC (ALL THEY HAD IN STOCK https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...049/10703784-P) , old one was definitely dirty but not horrible. I then moved to the TPS (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...208/18480648-P). With the new TPS i had to use either an o-ring or gasket. From what I could tell from the old one it had neither so I used the gasket - that may be it you're thinking but read on - / Put everything back together, sprayed some cleaner in the throttle body (didn't remove - should have) added new air filter and let her idle for abit. No change really which bothered me but not as much as when I went for a drive...

I get in drive her now usually at 20mph she gears at around 2k rpm but not with 2 new parts I had to gun her a bit and she kicked over but the big problem was trying to hit 40mph - rpms were in high 3k's. I pull over knowing this isn't right. I pull her apart again and say to myself just put on the old TPS so I did so leaving the NEW IAC be for now. I go to drive her same thing no acceleration over 2600. I make it home and say ok old IAC back now too. So I put on all the originals IAC & TPS. And venture out again...

She seems to be getting back to normal. I bring here to empty stretch she's gearing 25, 40, 50. is she re-learning I think? but still taking some high rpms to get her over there but once she gets into gear very smooth idle BUT than I pull over to turn around and head home and once I do back to no accel over like 2600.

Guys I wish I could explain this better but it's been horrible. I even broke my new phone because I forgot it was on my lap while begging the lord to make normal again. Haven't seen my bro since 2013 when I got out of the Corps and was really hoping to scoop him up in the van.

What I am seriously wondering is was the new TPS off? (not my one but for demo. same pretty much)

But even it it wasn't calibrated right out of the box would using it and than putting on the old again screw up the old ones calibration too? If so how can I calibrate it back. I know it's this. Don't see it being IAC.

Pizza for help and a big thank you from 2 US Marines!

questions ask I'll be pinned to this thread hoping someone feels bad for me haha
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:58 AM
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The trick is, when you replace parts of that nature, (IAC, TPS) the computer DOES need to relearn them. It also needs to relearn the 'zero' values. You do that by resetting the PCM. Just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. (or, disconnect the batt, turn on the headlights for 30 seconds. turn 'em back off before hooking up the battery again....) Hook the battery back up, and turn the ignition to "on", not start, count to ten. Don't touch anything else. THEN start the motor. The ten count is probably overkill, but, it gives the PCM a chance to see what the base values for various sensors is. It will learn from there.

You should idle around 650-700 in gear, fully warmed up.

Need to make sure the IAC well is nice and clean too. It tends to accumulate ugly stuff, which degrades performance of the IAC. I would try it first with the stock parts, as the aftermarket fellers can be a bit problematic.
 

Last edited by HeyYou; 12-02-2018 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The trick is, when you replace parts of that nature, (IAC, TPS) the computer DOES need to relearn them. It also needs to relearn the 'zero' values. You do that by resetting the PCM. Just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. (or, disconnect the batt, turn on the headlights for 30 seconds. turn 'em back off before hooking up the battery again....) Hook the battery back up, and turn the ignition to "on", not start, count to ten. Don't touch anything else. THEN start the motor. The ten count is probably overkill, but, it gives the PCM a chance to see what the base values for various sensors is. It will learn from there.

You should idle around 650-700 in gear, fully warmed up.
Brother after just reading and watching videos for the past 2 hours straight I came to the battery conclusion lol. My idiotic bro-inlaw was like no we don't have to do that when we did them. ASE certified my *** I swear he blew the instructor...

HeyYou I really appreciate you taking the time to help!

One question. I will do the battery def. but since all of the old parts are on there. I'm thinking of putting new back in, making sure the tps calibrated correct, put new IAC in, do battery and than see how it goes. Or should I just try pcm reset with old and see if that get me back to normal first?
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:09 AM
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Leave the old parts on there for round one. See what happens. (see my edit in my original post.) Clean the throttle body too.

Check that your TV cable is working right too. That has a pretty profound affect on shift points.
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:16 AM
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checked tv yesterday and it seemed "tight'ish". i will attempt the battery reset first. I cleaned TB yesterday (didn't remove) just the carb cleaner way. But was wondering about the IAC well. any suggestions on cleaning it? Qtip?

ps and of course it just started pouring outside lmao
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:53 AM
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I just pulled the TB, and sprayed it out with brake cleaner. Worked pretty good. The gasket is like 2 bucks.
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:00 AM
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Same problem after pcm reset. On the road still no gearing and high rpm.
​​​​​​
As far as idling goes it came down a little but still around 850

I swear this jas something to do with air. All the original back and pcm reset but still . I must be missing something

First is park 2nd is in gear


 
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I just pulled the TB, and sprayed it out with brake cleaner. Worked pretty good. The gasket is like 2 bucks.
Same problem after pcm reset. On the road still no gearing and high rpm.
​​​​​​
I don't even care about the high idle rpm at this point i just want her driving again

As far as idling goes it came down a little but still around 850

I swear this jas something to do with air. All the original back and pcm reset but still . I must be missing something

First is park 2nd is in gear


 
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Old 12-02-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I just pulled the TB, and sprayed it out with brake cleaner. Worked pretty good. The gasket is like 2 bucks.

​​​Got her back to "normal" with new IAC and TPS but kicking over to 2nd takes a bit. Between 30-45 she is better than before and than to kick into 4th take a bit but once past it she floats.

Im guessing she is still learning the the thing that is strange though is her rpms are still pretty much the same and the p1294 code came back even with pcm reset and new parts.

Im pissed i spent 75 bucks for no change but I'll figure it out. P1294 I'm guessing could be vacuum leaking too?
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 04:52 PM
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I've been trying to update this all day by phone but kept saying my replies needed mod approval. any who... she's back to "normal" with new TPS and IAC except she is still at 1050 in park idle and 850 in gear (warmed) AND shifting to 1 - 2nnd takes her all the way up to 3100 before it kicks in than at 40-45moh same thing but almost 3500rpm

once she's over 4th she's silky smooth. 50-60mph about 1500rpm 70moh @ 1900

now maybe she's still "learning" But i took out for a few hours about 60 miles and still hard to get her over the first hump and 3rd hump. here's a link to a vid of the obd reader as I'm driving. have a few vids I took but this one explain and shows. hopefully someone sees this.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SbHb7MzPzEKPEUng9

so before I did any of this she was somewhat fine. I had a small issue with her kicking to 2nd but not this bad. I changed oss last week and everything was good I should have ignored the p1294 code lol
 


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