1984 B350 5.2L V8 won't start
I've owned this vehicle for 5 years and it has always started and run well until now. It has been stored outside and not started for 1 year. A few days ago it started up right away and stalled out after 10 minutes. Has not started since then.
The crankshaft turns and it gets to where it almost wants to start but it won't. I've completed the following in an effort to solve the problem. 1. Drained all gas and added fresh gas to tank. 2. Replaced fuel filter. 3. Tested fuel pressure while cranking, it spikes to about 60 psi and then holds at 50 psi. 4. Pulled the plugs and cleaned them, they were not very dirty. 5. Replaced ignition coil, distributer cap, rotor, spark plug wires and wire from coil to cap. 6. Tested all plugs for spark using an inline tester that glows. All plugs have spark. 7. Replaced ignition control module. 8. Tried to start engine using starting fluid with no success. 9. Am using fairly new battery, it is producing strong cranks.
I plan on replacing the crankshaft position sensor next.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
The crankshaft turns and it gets to where it almost wants to start but it won't. I've completed the following in an effort to solve the problem. 1. Drained all gas and added fresh gas to tank. 2. Replaced fuel filter. 3. Tested fuel pressure while cranking, it spikes to about 60 psi and then holds at 50 psi. 4. Pulled the plugs and cleaned them, they were not very dirty. 5. Replaced ignition coil, distributer cap, rotor, spark plug wires and wire from coil to cap. 6. Tested all plugs for spark using an inline tester that glows. All plugs have spark. 7. Replaced ignition control module. 8. Tried to start engine using starting fluid with no success. 9. Am using fairly new battery, it is producing strong cranks.
I plan on replacing the crankshaft position sensor next.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
That's not necessary if you're getting spark. If the CPS was no good there would be no signal to generate spark from the coil. I would try a compression test next. It's possible the timing jumped a tooth if the original timing chain set is still in there.
Compression numbers are:
Hole D/W
1 120/117
2 115/115
3 95/115
4 110/112
5 100/100
6 102/115
7 95/100
8 100/110
Per my Haynes manual specs are for 100 psi min with no more then 25 psi variance across all cylinders. So the dry numbers seem ok except for holes 3 and 7 at 95 psi. I'm not sure how much of a problem I have in comparing dry to wet numbers. The tests were completed on a cold engine.
Does anything in these readings indicate compression could be the cause of my no start condition? Should I look to the timing belt next?
Many thanks,
John
Hole D/W
1 120/117
2 115/115
3 95/115
4 110/112
5 100/100
6 102/115
7 95/100
8 100/110
Per my Haynes manual specs are for 100 psi min with no more then 25 psi variance across all cylinders. So the dry numbers seem ok except for holes 3 and 7 at 95 psi. I'm not sure how much of a problem I have in comparing dry to wet numbers. The tests were completed on a cold engine.
Does anything in these readings indicate compression could be the cause of my no start condition? Should I look to the timing belt next?
Many thanks,
John
I think your rings are fine, therefore, compression must be going out the valves...... (If rings were bad, wet test numbers would have been MUCH higher than dry) Leakdown test wouldn't hurt. It'll tell ya exactly where compression is going.








