Despite the OBD II system not showing a code for a failed bank 1 O2 sensor I decided to replace it anyway since this condition seems to conicide with a bad 02 sensor. I did a diagnostic with my smartphone and got some weird readings off the bank 1 O2 sensor when the engine was popping cracking and backfiring.

The engine would flood out 1 minute after a hot start if it sat anywhere between 30 minutes to 3 hours. But then suddenly run fine if I held the throttle to the floor for 30 seconds or just shut the engine off and restart.

My theory is the heated element was burned out. But the other portion was OK. Unlike one wire o2 sensors that don't send feedback for sometime, my theory is these heated sensors are supposed to warm up fast . My guess is the ECU goes into a closed loop 1 minute after starting the engine if it's above a certain temperature. But if the 02 sensor is not sending the correct voltage the ECU goes nuts .

That's my theory.

I've yet to get a code related to a non existent cat converter from the bank 2 sensor.

also after disconnecting the battery for more than an hour has cleared the EVAP codes. But I expect those to come back whenever the OBD II finds them. Eventually.

It's too soon to tell but seems the flooding was due to this failed heater in the sensor. Yet the sensor starts reading once the exhaust heats it up.

Sound logical?

 

Yep. That is pretty much exactly how it works.

 

Wonder why it takes so long for the OBD II to find a failed component? I once had to drive an 04 Ford Explorer 400 miles with a missfire before the CEL came on just to know which cylinder was the culprit.

Seems like at one time my RAM van showed something wrong with the bank 1 sensor but I cleared the code and it never stored it again.

 

Old technology LOL