New thermostat. New Temperature Switch. Still overheating.
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Ok, yours is going to have two temp sensors. One for the gauge in the dash, and one for the PCM, I would be tempted to plug in with a decent scanner, and see if the two readings are relatively close to each other. A poor connection at the sensor for the gauge can give you an artificially high reading...... If you don't have access to the scanner, just unplug/plug back in the 1 wire sensor three or four times, and see if your temp readings change.
Now, if it actually IS running hotter than it should, get the engine up to temp, shut it down, then try and turn the fan by hand. If it turns relatively easily, fan clutch is toast. If it's really stiff, then that likely isn't the problem.... and you need to look elsewhere.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a cheap IR temp gun, run the engine up to temp, and see what temps in various parts of the radiator look like. I may flow fine in some places, but, not very well, or, at ALL in others. Temp readings will tell you that.
There was a thread recently in the 2nd Gen Ram section, (I think) where a member was having pretty much the same issues as you, and it was because his radiator was clogged lower down the core.
Now, if it actually IS running hotter than it should, get the engine up to temp, shut it down, then try and turn the fan by hand. If it turns relatively easily, fan clutch is toast. If it's really stiff, then that likely isn't the problem.... and you need to look elsewhere.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a cheap IR temp gun, run the engine up to temp, and see what temps in various parts of the radiator look like. I may flow fine in some places, but, not very well, or, at ALL in others. Temp readings will tell you that.
There was a thread recently in the 2nd Gen Ram section, (I think) where a member was having pretty much the same issues as you, and it was because his radiator was clogged lower down the core.
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I'm not sure, as I haven't tried that, but I will try and let you know the results.
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Now, if it actually IS running hotter than it should, get the engine up to temp, shut it down, then try and turn the fan by hand. If it turns relatively easily, fan clutch is toast. If it's really stiff, then that likely isn't the problem.... and you need to look elsewhere.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a cheap IR temp gun, run the engine up to temp, and see what temps in various parts of the radiator look like. I may flow fine in some places, but, not very well, or, at ALL in others. Temp readings will tell you that.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a cheap IR temp gun, run the engine up to temp, and see what temps in various parts of the radiator look like. I may flow fine in some places, but, not very well, or, at ALL in others. Temp readings will tell you that.
And I'm picking up an IR temp gun this evening.
Yes. It causes the Temperature Gauge to show cooler.
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I won't. I'm just borrowing one from a buddy of mine. Picking it up after he gets home.
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Decided to go ahead and replace the radiator. Picked one up yesterday and will be having it installed soon. Hopefully this will take care of the overheating and also be the last bit of repair work this thing needs for a while.
I'll update this thread to let everyone know how it goes. Thank you all (even NASCAR RAD guy) for the input. I really appreciate the help.
I'll update this thread to let everyone know how it goes. Thank you all (even NASCAR RAD guy) for the input. I really appreciate the help.
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Here we are, 7 months later, and my van is finally running. Turned out that it WAS the radiator!! I bought a new radiator back in July, 2020 but couldn't get around to installing it until this month and all my overheating issues totally disappeared. Congrats to me, right? 🤣
A few other things I'd like to ask while I'm still in here........
1) Best way to go about locating a vacuum leak?
2) If my stock alternator is 90 amps, will it hurt anything to replace it with a 120 amp replacement?
Y'all really helped me out before and I'm very thankful. Maybe now you all can help again?
A few other things I'd like to ask while I'm still in here........
1) Best way to go about locating a vacuum leak?
2) If my stock alternator is 90 amps, will it hurt anything to replace it with a 120 amp replacement?
Y'all really helped me out before and I'm very thankful. Maybe now you all can help again?