Hey all, never posted,
Made this account when I bought an 04 Rumble Bee when I was in high school, now I've been a Mopar maniac - despite Dad's disapproval. The truck has been gone a while now, and have discovered vans are where it's at . This is my second van, first is an 03 B1500 homemade camper conversion. Bought this 1990 to replace the '03. Something more comfortable and without rotten front frame rails that plague the 98 - 03s (has anyone attempted to repair these?). I'll post some pics, both these things are dope. So that brings me here.
Looking for some insight into the wiring in a 1990 B250. I bought this conversion van off an old dude, it's got higher kms, 250,000, not bad for a highway miled unit, it's lived a charmed life; it's in wicked great shape for its age. I bought it with the idea it'd be on the road fast with little work - has lots of new parts (BJs, A-arm, rotors n pads just done, new tires) and am now regretting it a little; someone's f'ed with the wiring or maybe it's bad grounds - and they pulled a fast one pulling lights out of the 'message center' when I looked at it.

Couple of oddities to diagnose on it now if I plan on keeping the thing and not dumping it. Despite it being a pain in the *** it's growing on me.

1 - ABS and Brake warning light are always on, I tried grounding the ABS unit without it spitting out a code for me, lamp stayed on didn't blink a code. I'm thinking it could be the rear speed sensor? Also checked fluid level and what I think was the e-brake switch copper looking plate grounding to it. Also looks like the wiring from the lower hydraulic unit to the module pin connector has been replaced, and when I got it home the module wasn't even hooked up!? (no module, no light, no problem)

2 - The headlight switch when pulled to the high beam portion acts as if I've turned the key to "ON" lamps light up and there's friggin power to everything - wild. Also the light indicator above the switch is always on - odd.

3 - The DRLs are home made - run off of some relay junction not being used by the firewall. Have yet to check if there is a DRL module anywhere. I think I can sneak this one by the mechanic if I run the wire more craftily but more importantly - why tf is it hooked up this way?

4 - Hazard switch is messed up. Doesn't click in or out, also looks jerry rigged with a screw that isn't factory - I ordered a new signal switch assembly to fix. Wonder if this has to do with someone digging into the ignition wiring.
Does anyone know what the black cylinder with the light inside it immediately behind the hazard switch on the column is? It's always hot. Can't find pics of this anywhere, is it an 'ignition light'?

I'll wire accessories all day long but electrical diagnostics aren't my jam - especially old school stuff . Looking for advice or diagrams for diagnosing my brake warning lamps, headlight switch and maybe getting some of this wiring back to factory so a guy doesn't start a fire and will pass a safety.

Any advice on the above is appreciated - thanks for reading.

P.S. Gonna have to do the oil pan gasket. Any tips or previous threads a guy could reference? Any other things a guy should look out for on a high mileage 318.

 

You might be able to find stock wiring diagrams here. Anything added by the conversion company though, for that, it is anyones guess what they did. I have NEVER seen that kind of thing documented anywhere..... (not even by the conversion companies......)

The little cylinder by the ignition switch is indeed a lamp for it. It *should* come on when you open a door, stay on for a bit, then go out. Probably controlled by a module somewhere.

Were DRL's legally required on 1990 model year vehicles in Canada? I don't think they became a thing in the US until sometime in the 2000's......

 

Yes DRL's were new as of 1990 and required equipment in Canada.
I'll have to tear into the column and see what's going on with that ignition lamp.

Yeah I don't think these quirks are conversion company's doing gotta be homemade - why I do not know. only thing I can guess is if someone wanted power on without putting in the key you could turn the headlamp switch on? I don't know haha I'll be digging into it more over holidays next week. There's actually a pigtail on the diagrams for "Conversion Wiring" that a separate fuse panel uses in the driverside footwell.

Thanks for the diagrams! You are a God send!

 

Update on the electrical. It did indeed have a command start system installed, but did not come with keys for the thing. Pulled it out this afternoon.
Now I've got a better problem, the dash lights / dimmer switch stay on unless turned off completely. Made a video of whats going on here: Cheers.

 

Dash lights won't come on unless you have the park, or headlamps on. That's normal behavior.

The light above the headlight switch, I have no clue. Never seen one of those before. The light by the ignition switch though, that should come on when you open the door, and then go out after 10 seconds or so.... (after the door closes....) Something ain't quite right in the wiring there.

 

The problem with "headlight indicator icon / ignition switch light" both staying ON = the accessory delay relay has gone bad.
You can remove it and the problem is "solved" . Or get a new relay.
Check RockAuto under electrical for "accessory delay relay" = about $12-13
And then you will know which relay to look for - delete.
They have a picture of it.

It's located under steering column area on the left side.
Usually the first relay you can touch in that area.
My 89 was doing the same thing .


Dash Cluster Lights staying ON - could be the headlight switch going wonky - more than likely